In a message dated 7/13/2006 10:22:31 A.M. Central Standard Time,
grunau.garage@sympatico.ca writes:
Hi Bob,
Here's what I have....
So I have some questions:
I have two four position ignition/light switches:
1-PLC-2, looks very similar to a TC PLC-6 switch except has the extra
position for the charge system. This switch has an MRN-2 key , a crooked
light lever ( looks like it got caught in a screen door ) and an open window
to indentify the switch position.
My switch (identified as a PLC-2) has no markings on the ring, but has the
LUCAS in white paint below the key hole. Handle is straight and exposes 1, 2,
side and head as it is turned. Markings are black on a white background.
2-second switch is a PLC-5, same four positions on the light lever, straight
lever, no key but a funny opening that any flat bladed screw driver can
operate. Switch locations are identified by Charge low/high and Lamps
side/head engraved on the chromed outer ring . I suspect this switch is more
correct for the PA but wonder about the funny "key".
I have seen others with the flat, thin "key" you describe but can't remember
who's car I was examining. Mine has standard key arrangement. It was rebuilt
by "Old Lock and Key" in the UK.
Both switches have the same connections and wiring markings on the back.
Both appear to make the same connection internally when operated through the
range of four positions. So any clues which is correct for the PA. Or can I
marry parts from the two switches to make a proper PA switch??
I have been told there were "several" different switch models of switch used
throughout PA-PB cycle.
The PA wiring diagram does not show any connection to "F2" terminal on the
back connection on the switch. Is this correct? I looked at a TA switch
and it shows F2 connected.
I have two different diagrams... one seems to repro of drawing in Blowers,
the other (I was told) came from Lucas. Both show a jumper from F1 to F2.
I do have several P type fuse/cutout boxes. One has no cutout so I could
use a diode. Any comments on using a diode instead of the cutout?
I'm currently working on the same problem... twice the cutout has stuck shut
after a short drive.. with everything (including incorrect metal cutout
cover) getting real hot real quick. Brian and Jerry are trying to sort me out
but
I fear I may have cooked the dynamo!
Jerry suggests the diode as a solution for me. I will stop there as I am a
total ignoramus on electrics.
Don B.
If anybody has a simplified wiring diagram or any hints, I'd sure appreciate
them.
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