Thanks to everyone who responded. First I learned a number of things:
that camber should be held as close to zero as possible, toe should be a
minimum as can be but err on the toe in side with numbers in the range
of 1/16 - 1/8 inch total in (never ever toe out! ), Scrub radius needs
some as neutral scrub will leave you feel directionless, significant
amounts of caster are useful but caster stagger is not, bump steer is to
be eliminated. So those are the targets I am shooting for. Here are
remaining two questions
First is what kind of tolerance should a shade tree kinda guy shoot for
on the settings? When I look at my old Sunbeam shop manual they give
setting sometimes in arc seconds for crying out loud. This was mid
sixties. I wont be buying a laser alignment set up lol. So what is
generally good on the salt?
And hopefully lastly, thrust angle alignment. There are two components
of this, one is rear end angularity or which way is the rear pointed and
second is even with perfect perpendicularity, the rear can be off set
some (just watch those nascar car!). Right now, the rear end is as
perfectly centered in the frame as I can make it. But with adjustable 4
link it is completely possible to be centered and yet still have a small
amount of thrust angle misalignment. I did what I thought was a good
job, but how to accutately check the angle? Centering is not all that
hard to do.
Comments? Advice?
After the old geezer technology conference this morning, I have a couple
of questions regarding front steering design and setup. Just for
continuity of discussion.
Many thanks!
mayf heading out to the technology conference....
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