Benn
Cut off the bottom, weld the top, sleeve and re-weld the bottom piece.
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Dymaxion " < david_dymaxion @yahoo.com>
To: land-speed@ autox .team.net
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 11:20:53 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Land-speed] rollcage welding
This might help (apologies if this has already been mentioned):
o Cut holes in the floor
o Drop the tubes done the holes, lowering things for working room
o Weld things up
o Raise the cage
o Slide the pads under the tubes, covering the holes
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 11:09:07 -0800
From: "Benn" < karhu @ california .com>
Subject: Re: [Land-speed] rollcage welding
To: <land-speed@ autox .team.net>
Message-ID: <2BE417A28E6E4308BB8A7B664D872A21@ BennsDesktop >
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset ="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
Thanks for the response, Dave.
I don't think it'll be possible to get more than the main bar with some sleeve
stubs removed from the car temporarily--any significant extensions just won't
have enough room to maneuver.
I do kinda like the "slide it forward" approach: But I'm trying to get the main
hoop as tall as possible, and that means it fits behind the roof reinforcement
at the rear of the T-tops. I also only can move it forward about 4" (need up to
8" to get the main hoop into the dooropening ) without moving the front hoop
closer to the main hoop, since the front hoop will othewise run into the
A-pillar.
Hmm , maybe the main hoop could be pivoted about its top without the front hoop
attached. Some puzzle-fitting may work by moving some bar positions a few
inches... Thanks for the thoughts--I may need to use some combination of all
these approaches.
So is the implication that I'd need at least "several" inches clearance to a
wall to get a good weld around the circumference of the side bars?
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