Bryan-- thanks for the tips. I found the service manuals on ebay, buy it
now prices for original books and CD, $150 and $40 respectively. I'm
debating which way to go. I may well spend an evening searching the online
card catalogs of some of the local libraries. But I suspect the travel and
the cost to photocopy pages may eat up a significant part of the money I'd
spend for the CD.
Redoing the compression check as you suggest I think will tell me something.
And I'm thinking if I take the valve cover off, go buy the special valve
adjusting tool setup and an assortmant of shims (which I'll need in the
future anyway) and do some leakdown testing at various valve clearances on
the #2 cylinder I may get a better handle on the problem that may suggest a
quick fix rather than a complete head rebuild.
All to often in this life I've approached a repair with a preconceived
notion of the cause only to find absolutely no evidence of the damage once I
got everything apart. And at that point the subtle evidence traces are all
too often gone.
Thanks again....Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Savage" <b.a.savage@wildblue.net>
To: "Ed Weldon" <23.weldon@comcast.net>; "List Land Speed"
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Land-speed] (NON-lsr) New truck-->Old truck
>
> Ed,
> The first thing I would do in find out if there is a library
> that has the factory shop manuals available. Probably 2
> volumes.
> Find out how to pull the plugs, usually an amazingly difficult
> job on modern engines.
> Then check the compression again to determine if it is rings or
> valves/head gasket -- you know the old compression before adding
> oil to the cylinders and after.
> The head gasket is the most likely source of the problem. My son
> has 285,000 on his old 1989 Toyota PU and it just passed Smog.
> A new clutch and water pump is all that has been done.
> Searching the Internet will provide a lot of good information Ed.
> Hope that helps, Bryan
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