Hi Sparky
As I recall, this is your first dry sump. Just a few tips for you in case
you didn't know.
The cog belt runs slightly loose compared to a V belt. Don't over tighten it
as it could fail. When I have mine adjusted, it's just loose enough to slip
it off the pump pulley.
When I do that, I can prime the engine oil by putting a 1/2" socket on the
pump pulley bolt and spin it up clockwise with an air ratchet. I run it until
the oil pressure reaches at least 25#'s and holds it. As soon as I remove the
socket, I reinstall the belt. I do this just before firing the engine. DON'T
FORGET TO PUT THE BELT BACK ON!!!
I don't remember you mentioning oil tank heaters. If you don't have heaters,
install them. You can use in-tank heaters that screw in a pipe thread bung
you can weld in the sides of the tank or use external strap heaters. They run
on 110AC and a generator will fire them on location. I heat my oil up to 160f
just before firing the engine.
Don't run any vents to atmosphere on the engine. You want the dry sump to
suck as much vacuum as it can, probably about 15" of vacuum depending on how
many stages you have for suction oil return. This allows the pistons to move
up
and down easier as things do in a vacuum. Dry sumps/vacuum pumps also allow
you to run lower tension piston rings for reduced friction and more HP.
Not sure if you have an oil pressure warning light in addition to your gauge
but it's cheap insurance because you don't have to be looking at the gauge
to be alerted. I use a Summit 30# switch that triggers a drag race shift light
about 8" from my big mug. Can't miss it!
Above all, have FUN! Wish I was going.
Otto
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