personally i would
add a regulated power supply 8 volts comes to mind..enough to have a large
voltage swing but well below a battery not up to power
I assume that R12 is for led current if so might want to make that a pot so
you have a brightness control with possibly the minimum resistance in series
so you don't toast the leds.
for the number of triggers take a look at the frequency range and set the
number of triggers on the wheel with a couple of ranges so that you get the
full swing of the converter.
IE up to 200 mph use 8 200 to 250 7 250 to 300 6 etc.. that will just be a
little math up front.
You might want an led for zero slip so you know it is working when powered
up or possible negative slip if it is set up incorrectly you could use a
separate op amp for that depending on how many are in the package you
spec'd. For stuff like this i usually just use a cheapo LM324 it has 4
opamps in one package.
The only other thing is personally i would only use one trim pot to
calibrate the thing. Onr less thing to fiddle with..
a real treat would be an onboard ossilator so you could have a test mode on
the calibration. use possibly a LM 555 to put out some reasonable frequency
and feed it into both inputs and a point to check the voltage going to the
led driver or the zero slip led. At a fixed frequency it should read the
amount of slip in volts equal to the difference in loaded tire radius.. That
way you don't have to drive around endlessly to set zero.
I did not look at the circuit for functionality only how it works in
concept. i am sure forest got the values all within reason..
Just some ideas..
Dave
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