Tom you are correct---
1. the trailer has to be LEVEL--first and Foremost
2. 12-15% of trailer weight on hitch
3. use equalizer hitch bars to pick the towing vechicle back to at least
nearly level
4. Use sway control devices---big long trailer with a lot of overhang---use 2
one on each side
5 I highly recommend longer tounges than what most considered normal tounge
lengths
6. a good stiff trailer frame is as necessary to good trailer handling as a
good frame is on your race car to have it handle well--- safe traillering
>
> From: "Thomas E. Bryant---" <saltracer@awwwsome.com>
> Date: 2003/11/19 Wed PM 07:47:05 CST
> To: John Burk <joyseydevil@comcast.net>
> CC: land-speed@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: trailer sway
>
> John,
>
> Your theory may be correct. I have experienced some very hectic trips
> because of trailer whip. Usually this is magnified when going downhill.
>
> I remember when the tandem trailers were first being used by Bonneville
> racers. There were some horror stories, like towing from LA to the Salt
> @ 35 MPH. A few lost race cars and trailers. This was a problem that was
> not experienced with single axle trailers.
>
> I have tried moving weight forward which usually has helped control the
> whip. The thing that I did most recently was to purchase a hitch insert
> that raised the tongue. My theory now is that the whip is caused by
> uneven loading on the tandem axles. We still carry quite a bit of weight
> on the hitch, but we tow at 75 MPH plus without a problem.
>
> Tom, Redding CA - #216 D/CC
>
> John Burk wrote:
>
"Sparky"
Lakester 2211
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