Hey I actually understand this stuff, but still having trouble will all that
roll center goblty gook.
Anyway we ran a pressurized tank system in the old car without any problems
and less complexity. Wasn't running over 15 lbs. of pressure, but then the
engine ran very cool, and we didn't need an excessive amount of pressure.
Not that there aren't some advantages to your system, I'm just not so sure
that they outweigh the complexity.
Why not simply spray plain water on a regular pressurized radiator (total
loss on the spray water) and cool that way.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "Dave Dahlgren" <ddahlgren@snet.net>; "John Beckett"
<saltracer@servusa.com>
Cc: "Bob Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "land speed list"
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: Radiator or Tank
> The key here John is the temperature water boils at 4000' ft ... and how
> water under pressure doesn't boil as quickly....
>
> I don't have a physic's book here ( obviously or I'd know how to spell
it )
> so I'm not going to put absolute numbers on it.... but I've heard water
> boils at around 190 in an open container and doesn't boil until 260
degrees
> with 20 plus pounds of pressure in a closed system...
>
> So if your raditor is recovering hot water from the thermostate at say 210
> and waters boiling off at 190.... the heat extraction as a result of
> evaporation is a dead no brainer.... water will not go over 210 until
there
> isn't enough of it incident upon the radiator to effectively steam off....
>
> I found this system was used as a total loss cooling system in some early
> aircraft designs as well.... they pumped the water in and it was simply a
> spent product in flight...
>
> Keith
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