If it were me then I would do a couple of things. Buy a set
of blades that are made correctly for the bore diameter.
They are cheap like 10 bucks a piece. Install a couple of
end stops so the blades stay centered if necessary. Check
the roundness of the bores in the injector housing that the
blades seat in, if need be have them bored slightly oversize
and get blades to match. Finally adjust the idle mixture
about 1 flat on the hex link to the rich side from best
idle, maybe 2 depending on how it leaves the line. You
really don't want to start a pass with the engine loaded up.
With your clutch working now put it in neutral while it
warms up.. My take on it any way.. Not telling you what to
do but some suggestions anyway, I have been down the same
road before and these thing usually fixed it all up.
Dave Dahlgren
ardunbill@webtv.net wrote:
>
> In response to Dave's questions, I have a four-speed, but the fast idle
> and defective clutch linkage I started out with last year resulted in
> very difficult gear selection at rest, from clutch drag. I expect the
> hydraulic throwout bearing will improve matters.
>
> The air-leak I referred to is the one resulting from the amount of
> daylight around the closed throttle plates in this early Hilborn
> injector, despite the fact that the plates are installed right side up,
> regardless of how they are adjusted, and after the hot-adjustment in the
> book. The plates are made so that at full throttle, there is perhaps
> 1/32" end play in the throttle shaft assy, apparently so they won't bind
> in the bores, and this represents a permanent air leak, apparently
> designed-in. The plates and bores are not worn, and the throttle shaft
> is just free to rotate, but probably some air does leak past it. I
> don't think Hilborn is concerned about that point unless it becomes
> severely worn, it affects the idle speed issue, but nothing else.
>
> I do have an advancer in the Vertex mag, so it starts at 20 degrees
> which the engine likes, and advances to 44 degrees by about 2500 rpm,
> which is correct for the "cartridge fire" Ardun heads which involve a
> little inherent retard of the ignition.
>
> The veterans tell me that richening the idle is the only real way to
> slow your Hilborn down. One respected Ardun Bonneville man said he can
> get his down to 1000. 1200 - 1500 would probably be okay too if the
> clutch releases fully and well as it should. But some other experts
> tell me their Hilborns are not like mine, and don't have these built-in
> air leaks. Maybe it's because mine are early ones. I don't know. I'm
> not disturbed about it in any case, the instrument is made for
> full-throttle running as priority 1 and at that, it's very, very good.
>
> I got the car to work last September at Maxton. Now I'm trying to
> develop it a little to be more manageable and not hurt itself. Cheers
> Bill
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