When you live in this glass house I created for my car... I get several
comments on every Modification I bring up.... Eventually I hear the Best
way to do each thing.... on the end of the day they are all opinions.... so
like everything I evaluate and Filter the information .... sort out what is
the best..
In the case of this electrical stuff there are a couple of comments that I
don't agree with.... First off.... the battery terminals are just fine....
you do have to do maintenence on any terminal... and at the last meet we had
to clean them.... Geez after two years on the salt and trickle charging them
every time before each meet.... I just forgot to clean them... they failed
us.... Fair enough....That doesn't make them BAD... The Terminal ends are
soldered and crimped on where possible.
As for the fine wire... I like solder.. you just have to know how to
solder.... and not let the heat move up the wire... that can in fact make it
brittle... what I like specifically is that the joints are secure beyond a
simple crimp... and Yeah Bill is absolutely right about the quality of the
crimpers... I bought a Nice set and they do work much better... As for the
heat shrink.... Hmmm sorry my lighter works just fine.... done it both
ways.... the lighter is fast.. simple ... easy ... clean and neat.... I am
sure there is merit to a real Heat gun over it.... but I go with what I have
on hand that works...
The Weather pac connectors are Very Cool options... what they are is a
Permanent type Sealed connector with triple soft seals that prevent water
and other stuff from entering the connection... they are expensive compared
to the stuff you buy at the local parts store.... but they are the Real
deal.... Nascar uses alot of them... Thanks to Bill I now have a good
source... Dave and I had talked about using them ... and it had been my plan
to re-evaluate all the wiring in the car this winter as we had problems at
the WOS with a bunch of wiring that I paid to have done for me.... Nothing I
did has ever failed.... but it's all two years old and time to be checked
and in many cases replaced....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Barrett" <speedtimer@earthlink.net>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
Cc: "Bill Bennett" <benettw@earthlink.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: Electrical stuff
> Hey Keith
> Can't you do anything without someone getting in your face??
>
> Keith Turk wrote:
>
> > Hey Bill... very cool website... I know I gotta buy some weather pack
stuff
> > so Dave will get off my butt for doing what I knew how to do.... Geez...
you
> > guys don't like any of my electrical system that I was so terribly proud
> > of.... all lined up neat and pretty.... all soldered and heat
shrinked...
> >
> > Bet you would complain if I hung you with a new rope...
> >
> > K
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Bennett" <benettw@earthlink.net>
> > To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 2:47 PM
> > Subject: Painting other things
> >
> > > While will are on the subject of painting blocks. A though came to me
> > > of something else useful to paint. Those pesky electrical connections
> > > that like to get all nasty after seeing salt. A few simple tips may
> > > save you some trouble later on.
> > >
> > > 1. Don't solder any electrical connection. Soldering causes a fatigue
> > > point. Use a crimp type connection, not the common type that you find
> > > in any auto parts store, but ones with a heat shrink type sleeve that
> > > seals the crimp.Yes Keith you can use your wife's blow dryer to shrink
> > > to sleeve. A pocket lighter is not recommend as it tends to get to hot
> > > and also if you forget and put it back in your pocket might burn some
> > > pretty serious places. If you have to use a common type crimp run to
> > > the closest Radio Shack and get some heat shrink tubing.
> > >
> > > 2. Invest in a good quality crimper usually about 30-50 bucks not one
> > > of those 5 -10 dollars types. You want a ratchet type that crimps the
> > > metal ferrule as well as the plastic sleeve.
> > >
> > > 3. Don't use those 1/4" wide quick connects. Use switches that make
> > > use of screw terminals and use a ring type crimp connections. Now it
> > > won't vibrate lose and leave you wondering how that happened.
> > >
> > > 4. After all your wiring is done and check it out to be completely
> > > functional. Find a can of plasti-dip use to recoat tool handles, color
> > > doesn't matter. If you can't find any look through your wife's finger
> > > nail polish, color does matter. Get the ugliest color you hate to see
> > > her wear. Hope she doesn't see you or she may worry about your other
> > > hobbies. Paint every connection including the screws cover them
> > > completely. This will seal the connections and help prevent them from
> > > vibrating lose.
> > >
> > > 5. Battery terminals: I wished they would outlaw those dog gone cheap
> > > emergency battery terminals as they are nothing but trouble. Moroso
> > > and a few other stock a nice compression type terminal that works like
> > > a tubing compression fitting. Otherwise use a crimp type. They make an
> > > inexpensive tool for crimping these that Keith can use his hammer
> > > with. Before adding the terminal make sure you have bright shiny
> > > copper if not use some fine emery cloth to polish the wire. Obtain
> > > some "NO-OX" from the local electrical supply house. It comes in a
> > > tube. Coat the wire good with it and make your connection, you can
> > > wipe off the excess. What now did you forget to put that piece of heat
> > > shrink tubing on it before you made the connection. Yeah helps seal
> > > this connection too. Use it everywhere.
> > >
> > > Keith that last one is meant for you get rid of those sorry terminals
> > > no since having a fast car with cheap terminals.
> > >
> > > Here is a link that carries just about everything I talk about and
> > > just about anything electrical you could need to wire a car.
> > >
> > > www.waytekwire.com
> > > Order their free catalog
> > >
> > > Bill
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