As a long time NASCAR inspector and Race Director, all I can say is AMEN!
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From: "DOUG ODOM" <popms@thegrid.net>
To: <LGMCAFEE@aol.com>
Cc: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: roll cage
> Larry; I can tell you how I would build it. That does not mean it the
> right or only way. But take it from a guy that just tipped over 3 1/2
> times at 170 MPH without a mark or sore spot on my body. Go look at a
> nascar truck roll cage. Every bar in there is in there for a reason. You
> don't have to have all the door bars because there isn't 42 other trucks
> out there that might run into you. Look at the seat and seat mounting
> very closely. I have seen cars that didn't have much damage but the
> driver was badly hurt or killed because the seat broke lose. You must
> have the seat attached to the roll cage so you and the cage are one
> unit. Doug Odom in big ditch having a great thanksgiving
>
> LGMCAFEE@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Hi list
> >
> > I have a 1952 chevy pickup that I'm going to start work on and
need
> > some advice on roll cages. This will be a D mod class truck. I called
several
> > companies and found only one that has a cage for this year. They make a
8
> > point cage with 1 3/4 tube with ,134 wall or they make a 10 point that
is 1
> > 5/8 by .134 wall thickness. Looking at the rule book either one will
work, is
> > this correct. I'm leaning toward the 10 point. Also as you all know
these old
> > trucks set real high and I need to get it down. Is an after market drop
axle
> > legal? I was also thinking of making an adjustable drop axle. Any
suggestion
> > will be appreciated. Thanks
> > Everyone have a good thanksgiving.Larry Mac
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