We use a hydraulic clutch setup in the lakester.. But the
bleed line is attached to a hose that sticks out so you can
open the bleeder where you can see it..
Dave
ardunbill@webtv.net wrote:
>
> Hi Folks, got the latest newsletter today with the stories on the Sept.
> 30 Maxton Meet. There were many outstanding performances. I was
> especially pleased to see Booker Poirier's '49 Harley dirt track racer
> at the meet. In catching a glimpse of it at the track myself, I took it
> for a KR, but in fact it would be a WR model. The bike broke a hundred
> at Maxton, not bad at all.
> Thanks to Bill Mackey for the great work he does on the Newsletter!
>
> Got my regulation Master Switch installed on the XXF/GR now, the Flaming
> River item. It seems to be good quality, and works as expected.
> Nothing much to the installation, just a matter of rounding up the piece
> of #2 cable and the right cable ends at NAPA. Since my battery is in
> the trunk, all I needed was 2 feet of cable, the existing + line was
> long enough to reach the switch which is in front of the pushbar, under
> the body, by the frame, where it is both handy and protected. The mag
> kill wire was just a matter of extending the kill wire from the cockpit
> switch back to the FR switch, then to ground. So now there is the FR
> master switch to kill both mag and battery +, and another master switch
> and mag kill switch in the cockpit.
>
> Pulled my 3.00 3rd Member from the 9" Ford rear, to replace it with a
> 2.75 item I got from Currie. Currie gave excellent service and got the
> order right. I ran into one snag, one of my axle bearings was "stuck",
> until I thought to turn the brake drum around backwards, put the nuts on
> backwards, then beat on the drum with a two by four with impetus
> provided by my trusty two pound ball peen hammer. This popped it out
> without damage. If you do this, don't break the drum!! Or if you do
> break it, don't blame me. Keith told me to get a rubber gasket for the
> 9" Ford from BSR Products in Concord, NC, reusuable indefinitely and it
> doesn't leak (for him). So I called BSR at 704-795-0901 and ordered it,
> but they said it is back-ordered at the moment, expected in a week.
>
> I removed my street rod brake master cylinder to scope out the situation
> regarding installing a pair of Tilton master cylinders, one for the
> hydraulic clutch. The Tilton items are so compact it is practical to
> install both of them in the space on the frame bracket for just the
> original master cylinder. I ordered the two master cylinders, in 1-1/8"
> size, as Wilwood items, from the Speedway Catalog, and the kits are
> identical to the ones in the Tilton catalog, except with Wilwood all
> over them. Evidently Tilton makes them for Wilwood, or vice versa.
>
> Respected authorities on this List say both that hydraulic clutches are
> good, and no good, so I hope it works for me, since I really have to do
> something about my mechanical clutch linkage. I am definitely going to
> get the Tilton pieces for the Super T-10 gearbox I use, but I see that
> in order to install and bleed the hydraulic clutch stuff it will be
> essential to have the gearbox in the car, and bolt the engine to it
> separately, rather than putting the engine and gearbox assembly in the
> car as in the past. Can't reach the gubbins through the window where
> the original clutch fork sticks out. Before that, of course, the
> hydraulic throwout pieces will have to be shimmed to suit the clutch and
> gearbox in a trial assembly out of the car. The hydraulic pieces are
> said to be self-adjusting and they need to be, because normal wear on
> the clutch disc would reduce the original clearance in the throwout
> bearing system and if you had to pull the engine just to adjust the
> shimming there, it would be a "bummer".
>
> Any comment from qualified personnel, or others, would be welcome.
> Cheers from ArdunBill in the Great Dismal Swamp, Chesapeake, VA
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