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Cooling

To: land-speed@autox.team.net
Subject: Cooling
From: ardunbill@webtv.net
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:59:14 -0400 (EDT)
Hi Folks.  Read the items about cooling with interest.  I have a 15 gpm
Jabsco 12V marine coolant circulating pump which they tell me is
in widespread use for cooling converted auto engines in marine use where
sea water is not used, but there is some form of heat exchanger so tap
water and antifreeze mix is used in the engine as per car practice.

I certainly question the idea that a huge gpm figure is necessary for
speed trials engine cooling.  You're only running a short while, even at
Bonneville, so the practice for decades has been, has it not, electric
pumps like mine, and vented systems, so you just run down there, and
heat your 10 to 20 or more gallons of water up gradually so that the
run's over before boiling point is reached.

I do agree that a thermostat makes complete sense, you get your engine
hot enough to "go", but your cooling water is not hot, so you have more
running time than if you heat the whole system up to some point.

I think the expert Keith cited is right that the engine makes best power
a little over 200, evidence for it is that the Japanese water-cooled
motorcycles commonly use thermostats about 205 degrees.  With 50/50
antifreeze you have a boiling point way up there, 226 with no pressure,
and higher with pressure.  So no practical reason why you can't run 205
with a speed trials iron.

My Ardun worked fine with the 15 gpm pump, 180 degree thermostats, and
10 gallons in the system with a trunk-mounted tank, at Maxton last
weekend.  This may be a different matter than a SB Chevy with tremendous
power output and smallish aluminum heads.  The Ardun aluminum heads
weigh maybe 50 pounds apiece and are thought to have a lot of
AIR-cooling value from their sheer size.  The bottom line is, a working
system that gives you the endurance and running temperature you want.
Cheers from ArdunBill in the Great Dismal Swamp,  Chesapeake, VA 
  


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