Interesting Read on the stock tank rule...
Brad and I have had that same thought.... Say's it's gotta be there... ain't
nothing that says it's gotta be full or uncut or UNBENT..... hmmm
K
----- Original Message -----
From: "ghalvorson:First ghalvorson:Last" <ghalvorson@earthlink.net>
To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 10:39 PM
Subject: Roll cage for Corvette
> Rich,
> You understand correctly, the main hoop and rear supports can be done
> easily to the TOP of the main frame. And the front diagonal supports tie
> into the small triangular brace in the INSIDE corner, right about where
the
> outer rear bolt is for the seat. Anything forward of that has to be tied
> into the inside of the frame rail, otherwise you have to gut the door and
go
> through the sill plate. I have stock door panels on and the swing out
tubes
> are bent slightly to fit the conture of the door panel. My tubes forward
> have a small bend toward the bottom of them just before they hit the frame
> rail, to give a better matting surface. True, a straight tube with no
bends
> is best. But in this case some tube is better than no tube. There is
> enough room for my left leg to work the clutch with no problem. And I can
> still work the hi/low beam switch. The swing out side bar presents the
most
> difficulty for the left arm. As I mentioned, in a hard left there is now
> place for my left elbow and arm to slide back into. The bar is there as
> well as the side support in the Kirky seat. But I am going to change
that,
> I am taking the saw to the side support of the seat.
> T&T is Tilt & Telescope. (1974, remember?) Without that, it would be a
> problem for the front windshield post tube. Right now I have the stock
> wheel but I just bought a new Grant wheel that is 1/2" smaller. I'll let
> you know how it works out.
> I have no horizontal dash bar. I suppose I could have one but I wanted to
> have a stock looking dash with all the panels. I don't think the front
> tubes give that much support, but and most importantly, the diagonaly
braced
> top structure gives support behind the windshield top corners. In the
event
> of a roll, the T-tops come off and the top of the windshield caves in. At
> least I have some some protection and the fact is, it is considerably more
> than the stock body gives.
> The motor mounts came w/ the car as it had the big block in it. 1974 was
> the last year. Get the same mounts.
> I have the independant rear, it is also my road racer. I have a Richmond
E.
> 5 speed. But to do the MPH I want, I will have to buy a Richmond E. six
> speed w/ the .80 overdrive last gear. I figure w/ my 3.08's I can do 210
at
> about 6,200 rpm. and 28" tires. At least by the numbers, on the salt may
be
> a different story.
> Unfortunatly, I built a super fuel cell and put it into the car before
> looking at the rule book. So I will not be in GT. I am toying with
taking
> a stock tank and cutting out the top and mounting it under the cell but it
> seems sort of stupid to me. The Class isn't important to me, the number
on
> the slip is what I am looking for. I'm not building a car to go after a
> record. I'm building a streetable, pump gas, driver that will also go
200+
> at the right time. Sounds like fun to me.
>
> Gene H
>
>
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