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Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage through
the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it
leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago. My
oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the
rebuild. Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will
that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase
leakage past the scroll seal?
*Michael I would be interested to know why you are thinking that a rebuild
is necessary at this stage. The drop in oil pressure alone would IMHO not
be reason enough. Is the engine making odd noises or burning excessive
amounts of oil? Perhaps a "ring and bearing" job would be the best way to
go.*
Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones
sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex
top surface. There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap
that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.
Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should
the hose terminate? I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back
and would prefer not to refit it.
*The PCV system that I've developed doesn't involve the rocker cover at all
and, by the sounds of it, your engine would be an ideal candidate. Check
the web site that I showed ... the system is virtually invisible but does
require the replacement of the manifold balance pipe.*
M
On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 p.m. Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Michael--
>
> Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the expense and
> trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong chance of it not
> being successful.
> Besides (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to allow m=
y
> car to have an occasional drip or two.
>
> A couple of questions....
>
> Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage throug=
h
> the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it
> leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago. My
> oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the
> rebuild. Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will
> that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase
> leakage past the scroll seal?
>
> Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones
> sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex
> top surface. There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler c=
ap
> that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.
> Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where shoul=
d
> the hose terminate? I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back
> and would prefer not to refit it.
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmai=
l.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.
>> Firstly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining
>> alignment, definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strong=
ly
>> recommend that the cap is in place on the block for this operation.
>> Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided that
>> it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the
>> block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required t=
hat
>> one drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.
>> Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but,
>> the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something t=
hat
>> you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined. =
I
>> did mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that huge hunk of
>> steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake =
...
>> rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you po=
wer
>> it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).
>> Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the
>> rear main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.
>> kit.
>> https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solutio=
n/
>>
>> In future I'm not going to bother with the seal kit and just fot the PCV=
.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt@gmail.co=
m>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm having my 100's engine done this winter and though it's not a
>>> terrible leaker I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things =
up
>>> as much as possible.
>>> I know there are several different kits available and would appreciate
>>> any input on which one to select along with installation tips.
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>>
>>>
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<div dir=3D"auto"><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=
=3D"auto">Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakag=
e through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember =
that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ag=
o.=C2=A0 My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was=
after the rebuild.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil=
pressure will that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend t=
o increase leakage past the scroll seal?</div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8p=
x;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><b>Michael I would be interested to kn=
ow why you are thinking that a rebuild is necessary at this stage. The drop=
in oil pressure alone would IMHO not be reason enough. Is the engine makin=
g odd noises or burning excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a "ring and =
bearing" job would be the best way to go.</b></div><div style=3D"font-=
size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div style=3D"font=
-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">Q2--My car has an early aft=
ermarket valve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one f=
in and with a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.=C2=A0 There is no =
vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that probably does not ma=
ke a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0=
advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose termina=
te?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and would pr=
efer not to refit it.</div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,2=
55)" dir=3D"auto"><b>The PCV system that I've developed doesn't inv=
olve the rocker cover at all and, by the sounds of it, your engine would be=
an ideal candidate. Check the web site that I showed=C2=A0 ... the system =
is virtually invisible but does require the replacement of the manifold bal=
ance pipe.</b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" d=
ir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cl=
ass=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 p.m. Michael Oritt, <<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";>michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrot=
e:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;bo=
rder-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Michael--</div><div class=3D"gmail_de=
fault" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forg=
o the expense and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong ch=
ance of it not being successful.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Besides (being an aging male) I should probably=
have the grace to allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.</div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">A couple of questions....</div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Q1--As said earlier my car does not have=
a great amount of leakage through the cotter pin in the bell housing, thou=
gh I do seem to remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly r=
ebuilt about 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil pressure has also dropped about 10=
-15 psi from where it was after the rebuild.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh en=
gine will have higher oil pressure will that result in higher crankcase pre=
ssures which would tend to increase leakage past the scroll seal?</div><div=
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Q2--My car has an early aftermarket va=
lve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with=
a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.=C2=A0 There is no vent nipple=
and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that probably does not make a tight =
seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0advantage t=
o installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I=
removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and would prefer not to=
refit it.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks--Michael Or=
itt=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <<=
a href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferr=
er">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gm=
ail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,=
204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">I've fitted a couple of th=
ose kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Firstl=
y you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining alignment,=C2=A0 =
definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly recommend th=
at the cap is in place on the block for this operation.</div><div dir=3D"au=
to">Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided tha=
t it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the =
block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required that=
one drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"au=
to">Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but=
, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something th=
at you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined. =
I did mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that huge h=
unk of steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuc=
k brake ... rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle =
as you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).</div><div dir=3D"auto">Final=
ly, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the rear main =
which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>=C2=A0kit.=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-10=
0-engine-oil-leak-solution/" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">https://p=
recisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">In future I'm not going t=
o bother with the seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael O=
ritt, <<a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote=
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px so=
lid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I'm having my 100's engine=
done this winter and though it's not a terrible leaker I''d li=
ke to install a rear seal kit to tighten things up as much as possible.<br>=
I know there are several different kits available and would appreciate any =
input on which one to select along with installation tips.<br><br>Best--Mic=
hael Oritt<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
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