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re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws.
It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20
bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a
selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it
does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws
that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be
removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large
accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the
correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if
lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way around."
Roger,
Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so
missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).
Bob
On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> A few minor corrections ...
> Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a spare
> shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !
> I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.
> However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor flange
> and the OD.
> I also use the wire/twine technique.
>
> Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It
> is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20
> bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a
> selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it
> does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws
> that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be
> removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large
> accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in
> the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong
> if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
> around.
>
> Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the adapter
> plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight with the
> release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring
> retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment
> after some careful threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used
> this a few times lowering onto the GB and also even on its side.
> Patience !
> rg
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03â?¯AM Michael Salter
> <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a
> spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
> The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my
> special tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>
> https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
> Â it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,
> <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly
> centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>
> https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>
> You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a
> suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D
> on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the
> gearbox while lowering. First time I did this I must have got
> lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see attached photo).
> Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the
> towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is
> only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel
> technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he
> removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and
> split the O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the
> gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
> mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock
> pliers while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in'
> (you had to be there).
>
> Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented
> correctly, or you'll get more experience with this process
> than you probably want.
>
> bs
>
> On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to
>> his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive &
>> Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans parts
>> which was done & we did not run into any issues. We can get
>> the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans, but
>> cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump
>> roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up
>> against & how do we get past it?
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>
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re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a
7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required.
To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some longer about
1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also
the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies that the
hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the
pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a
mark but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be
done inserting it the wrong way around."<br>
<br>
<br>
Roger,<br>
<br>
Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so
missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago). <br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CALPtYiO9+MPiR5oAUyU+FfTZkzCg7tPXsNAxaB-O_dvXBD8o+A@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>A few minor corrections ...</div>
<div>Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having
a spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !</div>
<div>I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.</div>
<div>However it does imply that the OD is open between the
adaptor flange and the OD.</div>
<div>I also use the wire/twine technique.<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out
with a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths
makes it easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers
are required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need
some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter
ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in
turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator
spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the
correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it
wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it
the wrong way around.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with
the adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't
have to fight with the release springs as well as gasket goo
and the oil pump spring retention all together. Then use the
dummy to do the bl alignment after some careful threading to
pull back the pump spring. I have used this a few times
lowering onto the GB and also even on its side. Patience !<br>
</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at
5:03â?¯AM Michael Salter <<a
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="auto">Although one may be difficult to find there is
no substitute for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this
job.
<div dir="auto">The spare shaft is used to align all the
internals then, using my special tool to hold the pump
plunger retracted</div>
<div dir="auto"><a
href="https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/</a></div>
<div dir="auto">Â it is a simple task to lower the overdrive
onto the gearbox. </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">M</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023,
11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be
perfectly centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this
diagram):<br>
<br>
<a
href="https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8";
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8</a><br>
<br>
You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use
a suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit
the O/D on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently
rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I did
this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a
couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and
O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away.
David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump
completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D
into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and
O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics
pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers
while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in'
(you had to be there).<br>
<br>
Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam
oriented correctly, or you'll get more experience with
this process than you probably want.<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<div>On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div style="font-family:Comic Sans
MS,sans-serif;font-size:16px">
<div dir="ltr">I spent the day assisting a friend
trying to mate his OD to his transmission. The car
is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were
pulled to replace a few internal trans parts which
was done & we did not run into any issues. We
can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of
mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We
have confirmed that the oil pump roller has been
fully retracted. What are we bumping up against
& how do we get past it?</div>
<div dir="ltr">Gary Hodson</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
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