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At the risk of starting another endless oil flame war, I don't think
anti-seize is the best solution for this application. My experience with
it is that any lubricant in it is just there for application; it
drys--or cooks off in high-temperature applications--leaving the solid
ingredient as residue. Inexpensive AS I believe has some sort of ground
ceramic; higher grade has either copper or nickel (nickel is rated
highest, the bottle I have says up to 2,600degF--no oil will survive
that). AS only provides a barrier to keep metal surfaces from sticking
to each other due to corrosion or other chemical reaction. When I pull
spark plugs I've installed with AS the oily part is gone, leaving only a
thin coat of ceramic/metallic residue. For this reason, I don't think AS
is the best lube for splined wheel hubs either. No matter how good the
fit, wheel hubs will have some 'ratcheting' going on, better to have a
good grease on there to prevent wear, which will also prevent the hubs
from 'welding' together.
I recently rebuilt my block heater tap. I got too clever and used valve
lapping compound to 'clean it up.' To my horror, the compound left
minute scratches on the cone valve (it's equivalent to 200 grit
sandpaper). I got them partially out with fine wet/dry sandpaper but
they were still visible. I put the valve back together with white
lithium grease and, so far, it's been fine, but in hindsight I think
wheel bearing grease would be better. It's the most tenacious grease and
at least somewhat waterproof. I've convinced myself the fine scratching
is like the hone on engine cylinders: it will help retain the grease
where it will do some good.
bs
On 4/17/2022 8:51 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
> I lfolk mine apart a couple of yesrs ago , cleaned, antiseize and its
> stuck open.
> I need to take it apart again
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, ORart
>
> On Sun, Apr 17, 2022, 7:03 AM BJ8Healeys via Healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> The ON position is at the full counterclockwise rotation of the
> handle.
>
> The last time I had the valve off I took it apart, cleaned it, and
> applied anti-seize compound to the tapered shaft. Still works very
> smoothly.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NCÂ USA
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf
> Of *Richard Kahn
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 16, 2022 1:02 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell; healeys@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl heater tap on the block
>
> Your photo made me check. It actuall does say off and on the
> valve. Still the lever seems ot be half way between off and on. I
> have learned not to fix anything that is working. So, 7:30 it is
> until it starts leaking someday.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of
> Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 16, 2022 9:56 AM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl heater tap on the block
>
> Did I miss the answer to the question? Is it closed in the
> counterclockwise position? My BJ8 is open (getting heat) with the
> lever at the 7:30 position viewed from the front. It has always
> been that way. In US plumbing the heat would be off with the lever
> perpendicular to the hose and valve.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
> Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 16, 2022 9:43 AM
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl heater tap on the block
>
> Oh, I should have added: Be careful trying to turn, esp. if it hasn't
> been 'exercised' in a while. The handle is fragile (maybe soak in a
> penetrant first). Also, the valve is spring-loaded, if you can
> push it
> in and out a few times may help loosen it.
>
> On 4/16/2022 12:57 AM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> > Quick Q -
> >
> > If looking at the tap from the top, is it closed with the lever
> in the
> > full counterclockwise position, or the full clockwise positiom?
> >
> > Happy Easter &
> > Happy Passover!
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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At the risk of starting another endless oil flame war, I don't think
anti-seize is the best solution for this application. My experience
with it is that any lubricant in it is just there for application;
it drys--or cooks off in high-temperature applications--leaving the
solid ingredient as residue. Inexpensive AS I believe has some sort
of ground ceramic; higher grade has either copper or nickel (nickel
is rated highest, the bottle I have says up to 2,600degF--no oil
will survive that). AS only provides a barrier to keep metal
surfaces from sticking to each other due to corrosion or other
chemical reaction. When I pull spark plugs I've installed with AS
the oily part is gone, leaving only a thin coat of ceramic/metallic
residue. For this reason, I don't think AS is the best lube for
splined wheel hubs either. No matter how good the fit, wheel hubs
will have some 'ratcheting' going on, better to have a good grease
on there to prevent wear, which will also prevent the hubs from
'welding' together.<br>
<br>
I recently rebuilt my block heater tap. I got too clever and used
valve lapping compound to 'clean it up.' To my horror, the compound
left minute scratches on the cone valve (it's equivalent to 200 grit
sandpaper). I got them partially out with fine wet/dry sandpaper but
they were still visible. I put the valve back together with white
lithium grease and, so far, it's been fine, but in hindsight I think
wheel bearing grease would be better. It's the most tenacious grease
and at least somewhat waterproof. I've convinced myself the fine
scratching is like the hone on engine cylinders: it will help retain
the grease where it will do some good.<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/17/2022 8:51 AM, i erbs via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CABXhz8_1KZpd3wdfQ+aQYYRs8GJ9S37FCdLLbZ=L4V5K4zQKAQ@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">I lfolk mine apart a couple of yesrs ago ,
cleaned, antiseize and its stuck open.
<div dir="auto">I need to take it apart again<br>
<br>
<div data-smartmail="gmail_signature" dir="auto">Ira Erbs<br>
1959 AH 100-6<br>
1967 MGB<br>
Milwaukie, ORart</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Apr 17, 2022, 7:03 AM
BJ8Healeys via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div link="blue" vlink="purple" lang="EN-US">
<div class="m_5928986690995207098Section1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">The
ON position is at the full counterclockwise rotation
of the
handle.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">The
last time I had the valve off I took it apart, cleaned
it, and
applied anti-seize compound to the tapered shaft.Â
Still works very smoothly.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">Steve
Byers</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">BJ8
Registry</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">AHCA
Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">Havelock,
NCÂ USA</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a
name="m_5928986690995207098__MailEndCompose"
rel="noreferrer" moz-do-not-send="true"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Â </span></a></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
Healeys
[mailto:<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Richard Kahn<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 16, 2022 1:02 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Bob Spidell; <a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl heater tap on
the block</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">Your
photo made me check. It actuall does say off and on
the valve. Still the lever
seems ot be half way between off and on. I have
learned not to fix anything
that is working. So, 7:30 it is until it starts
leaking someday. </span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">Â </span></p>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:center"
align="center">
<hr width="98%" size="2" align="center">
</div>
<div id="m_5928986690995207098divRplyFwdMsg">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">
Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of
Richard Kahn <<a
href="mailto:tahoehealey@hotmail.com"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">tahoehealey@hotmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 16, 2022 9:56 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Bob Spidell <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank"
rel="noreferrer" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>;
<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl heater tap on
the block</span> </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">Did
I miss the answer to the question? Is it closed in
the counterclockwise
position? My BJ8 is open (getting heat) with the
lever at the 7:30 position
viewed from the front. It has always been that
way. In US plumbing the heat
would be off with the lever perpendicular to the
hose and valve. </span></p>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:center"
align="center">
<hr width="98%" size="2" align="center">
</div>
<div id="m_5928986690995207098x_divRplyFwdMsg">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black">
Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of Bob
Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 16, 2022 9:43 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl heater tap on
the block</span> </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt">Oh,
I should have added: Be careful trying to turn,
esp. if it hasn't <br>
been 'exercised' in a while. The handle is
fragile (maybe soak in a <br>
penetrant first). Also, the valve is
spring-loaded, if you can push it <br>
in and out a few times may help loosen it.<br>
<br>
On 4/16/2022 12:57 AM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys
wrote:<br>
> Quick Q -<br>
><br>
> If looking at the tap from the top, is it
closed with the lever in the <br>
> full counterclockwise position, or the full
clockwise positiom?<br>
><br>
> Happy Easter &<br>
> Happy Passover!<br>
><br>
> Cheers,<br>
><br>
> Alan<br>
><br>
<br>
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</blockquote>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>
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