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re: "... you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal ..."
I've read in a couple places that 'the clutch pedal should always be
pressed all the way to the floor' (or similar). My Mustang's owner's
manual says it, and IIRC I've read it WRT Healeys and other manual
gearbox'd cars. No explanation was given, and I've just assumed this
assures the clutch is disengaged as much as possible to avoid crunching
gears. Anyone know the canonical reason?
My BN2 has a 'pedal shaker'--Curt A. will know what I'm referring
to--the pedal hits the poorly-shaped aftermarket downpipe before full
travel.
Bob
On 10/6/2021 5:03 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Simon, that does not sound bad to me. It is hard to actually
> determine how far the clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it
> may not be quite in the last ¼ of travel. If the clutch arm starts to
> move once you have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all
> is OK. I assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the
> master cylinder pushrod is in good shape â?? these do wear and I have
> replaced mine several times. When they are worn you can have a fair
> bit of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up. Solution
> is easy and cheap â?? replace the cotter pin.
>
> I still have my gâ??box cover off, so I slipped out and checked mine.Â
> My clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out of
> the pedal and moves a total of 5/8â??, which I measured at the centre
> cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm. I estimated that the
> clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand
> when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed. Probably not ¾ depressed as
> you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to estimate.
>
> Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical knowledge!)
> consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you re-faced the
> flywheel, or may have â??roughed it upâ?? with some emery to remove any
> glazing. Regardless if you did the latter or not, the two surfaces
> (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have to be
> fully disengaged to turn the flange by hand. With a bit of use, after
> bedding in, they will disengage a little more readily and you may
> find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal. I imagine this
> will not be a big difference, but just slight. This is much the same
> as drum brakes, which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be
> re-adjusted after a few hundred miles to take up clearance from
> bedding in. Of course the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that
> clearance automatically. I think that is sound thinking, and I am
> confident if it isnâ??t someone will tell me ð???.
>
> Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging at ¾ depression of the pedal
> sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the clutch
> arm begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, Iâ??d
> say you are OK.
>
> Let us know how it goes.
>
> Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Simon
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* October 5, 2021 11:16 AM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Clutch
>
> Hi,
>
> Iâ??ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutch
> continues to be an issue.
>
> We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldnâ??t budge until we changed
> engineâ??s angle, then it slotted in.
>
> With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope,
> determined that the clutch itself can workâ?¦..
>
> With the car in 4^th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the
> clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to
> watch the slave.
>
> I got about ½â?? to ¾â?? total movement of the slave cylinderâ??s push rod
> at which point â?? pedal depressed to the floor â?? the clutch was
> released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by
> hand. ½â?? depressionâ?¦..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the
> last ¼â??.
>
> Thatâ??s got to be hydraulics???
>
> Iâ??ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the
> slave. But Iâ??m not optimistic as Iâ??ve tried bleeding several times.
>
> My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since Iâ??ve owned it. +/-
> 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a
> problem. Good idea?
>
> Another thingâ?¦..I do confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I
> always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes but
> thatâ??s mercifully seldom.
>
> Any commentsâ?¦.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 â?? travel???
>
> Simon
>
>
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re: "... you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch
pedal ..."<br>
<br>
I've read in a couple places that 'the clutch pedal should always be
pressed all the way to the floor' (or similar). My Mustang's owner's
manual says it, and IIRC I've read it WRT Healeys and other manual
gearbox'd cars. No explanation was given, and I've just assumed this
assures the clutch is disengaged as much as possible to avoid
crunching gears. Anyone know the canonical reason?<br>
<br>
My BN2 has a 'pedal shaker'--Curt A. will know what I'm referring
to--the pedal hits the poorly-shaped aftermarket downpipe before
full travel.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/6/2021 5:03 AM, m.g.sharp--- via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:005201d7baaa$38cacb20$aa606160$@sympatico.ca">
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">Simon, that does not sound bad to me. It
is hard to actually determine how far the clutch pedal
depresses (i.e., half way) so it may not be quite in the last
¼ of travel. If the clutch arm starts to move once you have
taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all is OK. I
assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the master
cylinder pushrod is in good shape â?? these do wear and I have
replaced mine several times. When they are worn you can have
a fair bit of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken
up. Solution is easy and cheap â?? replace the cotter
pin.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I still have my gâ??box cover off, so I
slipped out and checked mine. My clutch arm does start to
move once I have taken the slack out of the pedal and moves a
total of 5/8â??, which I measured at the centre cotter pin that
goes through the clutch arm. I estimated that the clutch
disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand
when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed. Probably not ¾
depressed as you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is
hard to estimate.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not
empirical knowledge!) consider that you have a new clutch disk
and perhaps you re-faced the flywheel, or may have â??roughed it
upâ?? with some emery to remove any glazing. Regardless if you
did the latter or not, the two surfaces (clutch disk to
flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have to be fully
disengaged to turn the flange by hand. With a bit of use,
after bedding in, they will disengage a little more readily
and you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch
pedal. I imagine this will not be a big difference, but just
slight. This is much the same as drum brakes, which, after
new shoes have been fitted, should be re-adjusted after a few
hundred miles to take up clearance from bedding in. Of course
the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that clearance
automatically. I think that is sound thinking, and I am
confident if it isnâ??t someone will tell me <span
style="font-family:"Segoe UI
Emoji",sans-serif">ð???</span>.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging
at ¾ depression of the pedal sufficiently that you can turn
the flange by hand, AND if the clutch arm begins to move once
the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, Iâ??d say you are
OK.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Let us know how it goes.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mirek<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-CA"
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-CA" lang="EN-US"> Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
<b>On Behalf Of
</b>Simon Lachlan via Healeys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> October 5, 2021 11:16 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Healeys' <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Clutch<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Iâ??ve been engaged on
other things until recently. However, the clutch continues
to be an issue.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">We got the gearbox back
in OK. Wouldnâ??t budge until we changed engineâ??s angle, then
it slotted in.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">With the aid of an old
email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, determined that
the clutch itself can workâ?¦..<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">With the car in 4<sup>th</sup>
and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch pedal by
hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the
slave.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I got about ½â?? to ¾â??
total movement of the slave cylinderâ??s push rod at which
point â?? pedal depressed to the floor â?? the clutch was
released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the
driveshaft by hand. ½â?? depressionâ?¦..no movement of the
flange. ie everything in the last ¼â??.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Thatâ??s got to be
hydraulics???<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Iâ??ll bleed it again,
maybe pushing backwards into master with the slave. But Iâ??m
not optimistic as Iâ??ve tried bleeding several times.
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">My clutch master
cylinder has been in the car since Iâ??ve owned it. +/- 25
years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a
problem. Good idea?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Another thingâ?¦..I do
confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I always
push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes
but thatâ??s mercifully seldom. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Any
commentsâ?¦.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 â??
travel???<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
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