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Re: [Healeys] Rust Protection Fluids

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rust Protection Fluids
From: Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2021 09:04:40 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <000001d75c58$eb55b8a0$c20129e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <f2f12dcb-dd68-5511-0854-d0f46b4fc639@comcast.net>, <f30dae98-421c-2b40-5ffe-092744b44ea0@comcast.net>
Thread-topic: RE: [Healeys] Rust Protection Fluids
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D=
'word-wrap:break-word'><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>The r=
ecommendations my father pasted down to me for older firearms was Gunslick =
and Hoppes.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al><a href=3D"https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-ho=
ppes-9/">https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-=
9/</a></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Ha=
rold<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div style=3D'=
mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padd=
ing:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'border:none;padding:0i=
n'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>Bob Spidell</a><br>=
<b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, June 8, 2021 4:41 AM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:=
healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [=
Healeys] Rust Protection Fluids</p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Followup (it's =
4:30am here and my brain isn't awake yet):<br><br>I was recommended a 'one =
spray does it all' product by a gun shop. I don't remember the product's na=
me--it's at my shop--but, when searching for it I came across this:<br><br>=
<a href=3D"https://mil-comm.com/gun-cleaning/the-problem-with-clp-type-gun-=
lubricants/"><span style=3D'color:#0563C1'>https://mil-comm.com/gun-cleanin=
g/the-problem-with-clp-type-gun-lubricants/</span></a><br><br>Since you're =
doing a restoration, it's probably better to use a protectant (only).<br><b=
r>Bob<br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On 6/8/2021 4:33 =
AM, Bob Spidell wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style=3D'margin-top:=
5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0=
pt'>I've used LPS3 on exposed metal on my BJ8 and the metal has stayed shin=
y (and I put a lot of miles on that car, some in rain):<br><br><a href=3D"h=
ttps://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor-Aerosol/dp/B000SKWQQS"><sp=
an style=3D'color:#0563C1'>https://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibito=
r-Aerosol/dp/B000SKWQQS</span></a><br><br>Its description says color is 'br=
own,' but it's a very light brown. I don't know of any product that is colo=
rless and, to be effective, I think they all leave a thin, waxy film.<br><b=
r>FWIW, I tried one of the 'best' (supposedly) 'bluing in a bottle' product=
s, and it didn't hold up; hopefully, you can find something better. The ori=
ginal bluing process required harsh chemicals and, I think, the application=
 of heat.<br><br>Bob<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On 6/8/2021 4:=
24 AM, <a href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com";><span style=3D'=
color:#0563C1'>simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</span></a> wrote:<o:p></o:=
p></p></div><blockquote style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal>Hi,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Not specifically a =
Healey query but we all know about rust=E2=80=A6.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal>So, I=E2=80=99m restoring an old pistol. (We=E2=80=99ll get one t=
hing straight first=E2=80=A6.I=E2=80=99m no Wyatt Earp. This thing is a nic=
e old .177 air pistol. A Webley &amp; Scott Mk1. My wife=E2=80=99s father=
=E2=80=99s. About a hundred years old. Still works well.)<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thus far, I=E2=80=99ve disassembled, removed the old blui=
ng and any rust. I=E2=80=99ll reblue it per instructions from the net and f=
rom the bottle of blue. No problems so far. Actually, the only issue is the=
 difficulty in obtaining parts.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I=E2=80=
=99m advised by the bluing manufacturer=E2=80=99s blurb on the bottle to fi=
nish off the whole process by =E2=80=9CSaturating metal in Barricade Rust P=
rotection=E2=80=9D. That stuff seems to be WD40 in all but name with the pr=
operty that, perhaps, it leaves a more lasting film on the metal. But the m=
anufacturer would tell one to do that, wouldn=E2=80=99t they? <o:p></o:p></=
p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Nanny has taken away most of our firearms in the UK,=
 so a lot of this type of stuff comes in from overseas. Typically the US. A=
nyone know anything about this stuff or similar???? Years ago, when playing=
 with Her Majesty=E2=80=99s firearms, we used to keep little bottles of Jen=
olite something or other, but that seems to be unavailable now. Only their =
Rust Converter.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I=E2=80=99ll probably ju=
st reblue it and wrap it up in an oily rag for another 20 years. (Just so l=
ong as my grandson doesn=E2=80=99t find it).<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Simon<o:p></o:p></p><p clas=
s=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></blockquote><p class=3DMsoNormal><br><b=
r><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________________________________________</=
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