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Hi Paul, I did my clutch a few years ago on my BT7, and I am just =
re-visiting now as I am re-building the engine.
=20
Opinions will no doubt vary, but my suggestions are:
=20
1. I would ck the flywheel for any shallow grooves (I assume there are =
no deep ones) by running a fingernail across it, and also look for any =
discolouration that would indicate hot spots where a slipping clutch =
might have generated a lot of heat. If either are present, I=E2=80=99d =
suggest re-facing the flywheel, but otherwise I=E2=80=99d leave it =
alone. If not re-facing the flywheel, I would use a small flat metal =
block and some fine emery to take any glaze off the flywheel, just make =
sure you do it evenly all the way around and keep a band-aid handy for =
when you catch a knuckle on the locating dowels.
2. Some may suggest balancing the flywheel and clutch together, but =
unless you have had vibration issues, I=E2=80=99d suggest it is not =
worth it if you are not balancing the rest of the engine. If you have =
not taken the pressure plate off yet, I suggest marking it and the =
flywheel with punch marks so if you re-use the pressure plate it can be =
put back in the same orientation as before. If your engine has been =
balanced in the past, there should be marks already there.
3. As it is an inexpensive item, I suggest replacing the pilot bush in =
the end of the flywheel. Soak it in oil overnight before installing the =
new one, and put a light coating of grease on the inside of it before =
you re-attach the g=E2=80=99box.
4. Brake cleaner should work fine for clean up of pressure plate and =
flywheel.
5. My recent experience has been led me to think that the older Borg and =
Beck (B&B) clutches are better than the new ones. I also think that we =
discard pressure plates when they still have a lot of life in them. I =
would look at it carefully and if the friction surface is in good =
condition and there is no noticeable damage to the rest of the pressure =
plate, I=E2=80=99d be inclined to re-use it. When I did mine a few =
years ago I laboriously re-faced the friction surface by hand with a =
small, fine file. It was a horrible job. I understand there are places =
that will disassemble the clutch and properly re-surface it. Because =
the friction surface is =E2=80=9Crecessed=E2=80=9D inside the cover, =
this cannot be done without taking it apart. In the intervening years I =
did acquire an NOS B&B clutch pressure plate which I am now fitting with =
the engine rebuild, but I am keeping that old one as I think it has much =
life in it yet.
6. For the record, the problem I had 2 years ago was with the driven =
plate. B&B changed the way they cage the springs that absorb the =
rotational loads, resulting it being marginally deeper (thicker?) than =
the original. So when is was all back together the clutch would =
dis-engage, but when the pedal was fully depressed the three arms that =
release the pressure plate fouled on the cages and produced an =
unlikeable noise (British understatement). I did not get any =
satisfaction from B&B, despite heroic efforts of the dealer I was =
working with, so I took a full refund, cleaned up the old driven plate =
(which had lots of friction material left), and re-installed it with the =
old pressure plate (with the hand-filed surface), with an NOS throw =
bearing and it worked fine.
7. Lastly, I would not be tempted by new designs such as the one offered =
by DW. I have never had a problem with a Healey clutch (the recent =
re-design by B&B excepted), and the original clutch was made to work =
with the engine as a package resulting in a smooth running unit. I =
would not upset that unless you are building a race engine and tackling =
all aspects of the engine.
=20
Good luck with it, Mirek
=20
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Paul Leeks
Sent: April 13, 2021 12:49 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch renewal follow-up
=20
Hi chaps
=20
A couple more questions, if I may ...
=20
I now have the gearbox off and the old clutch out.
=20
Should I replace the whole cover assembly or, as it seems fine, can just =
I clean and reuse with the new clutch driven plate?
=20
I may, as advised, get the flywheel resurfaced. Either way, should I =
use brake cleaner to clean the flywheel and clutch assembly?
=20
Many thanks
=20
Paul Leeks
100/6 BN4
=20
=20
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vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Hi Paul,=C2=A0 I did my clutch a =
few years ago on my BT7, and I am just re-visiting now as I am =
re-building the engine.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Opinions =
will no doubt vary, but my suggestions are:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><ol =
style=3D'margin-top:0cm' start=3D1 type=3D1><li class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:0cm;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I would ck the flywheel for any =
shallow grooves (I assume there are no deep ones) by running a =
fingernail across it, and also look for any discolouration that would =
indicate hot spots where a slipping clutch might have generated a lot of =
heat.=C2=A0 If either are present, I=E2=80=99d suggest re-facing the =
flywheel, but otherwise I=E2=80=99d leave it alone.=C2=A0 If not =
re-facing the flywheel, I would use a small flat metal block and some =
fine emery to take any glaze off the flywheel, just make sure you do it =
evenly all the way around and keep a band-aid handy for when you catch a =
knuckle on the locating dowels.<o:p></o:p></span></li><li =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'margin-left:0cm;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Some may suggest =
balancing the flywheel and clutch together, but unless you have had =
vibration issues, I=E2=80=99d suggest it is not worth it if you are not =
balancing the rest of the engine.=C2=A0 If you have not taken the =
pressure plate off yet, I suggest marking it and the=C2=A0 flywheel with =
punch marks so if you re-use the pressure plate it can be put back in =
the same orientation as before.=C2=A0 If your engine has been balanced =
in the past, there should be marks already =
there.<o:p></o:p></span></li><li class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:0cm;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>As it is an inexpensive item, I =
suggest replacing the pilot bush in the end of the flywheel.=C2=A0 Soak =
it in oil overnight before installing the new one, and put a light =
coating of grease on the inside of it before you re-attach the =
g=E2=80=99box.<o:p></o:p></span></li><li class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:0cm;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Brake cleaner should work fine for =
clean up of pressure plate and flywheel.<o:p></o:p></span></li><li =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'margin-left:0cm;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>My recent experience =
has been led me to think that the older Borg and Beck (B&B) clutches =
are better than the new ones. I also think that we discard pressure =
plates when they still have a lot of life in them.=C2=A0 I would look at =
it carefully and if the friction surface is in good condition and there =
is no noticeable damage to the rest of the pressure plate, I=E2=80=99d =
be inclined to re-use it.=C2=A0 When I did mine a few years ago I =
laboriously re-faced the friction surface by hand with a small, fine =
file.=C2=A0 It was a horrible job.=C2=A0 I understand there are places =
that will disassemble the clutch and properly re-surface it.=C2=A0 =
Because the friction surface is =E2=80=9Crecessed=E2=80=9D inside the =
cover, this cannot be done without taking it apart.=C2=A0 In the =
intervening years I did acquire an NOS B&B clutch pressure plate =
which I am now fitting with the engine rebuild, but I am keeping that =
old one as I think it has much life in it yet.<o:p></o:p></span></li><li =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'margin-left:0cm;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>For the record, the =
problem I had 2 years ago was with the driven plate.=C2=A0 B&B =
changed=C2=A0 the way they cage the springs that absorb the rotational =
loads, resulting it being marginally deeper (thicker?) than the =
original.=C2=A0 So when is was all back together the clutch would =
dis-engage, but when the pedal was fully depressed the three arms that =
release the pressure plate fouled on the cages and produced an =
unlikeable noise (British understatement).=C2=A0 I did not get any =
satisfaction from B&B, despite heroic efforts of the dealer I was =
working with, so I took a full refund, cleaned up the old driven plate =
(which had lots of friction material left), and re-installed it with the =
old pressure plate (with the hand-filed surface), with an NOS throw =
bearing and it worked fine.<o:p></o:p></span></li><li =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'margin-left:0cm;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Lastly, I would not be =
tempted by new designs such as the one offered by DW. =C2=A0I have never =
had a problem with a Healey clutch (the recent re-design by B&B =
excepted), and the original clutch was made to work with the engine as a =
package resulting in a smooth running unit.=C2=A0 I would not upset that =
unless you are building a race engine and tackling all aspects of the =
engine.<o:p></o:p></span></li></ol><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Good luck =
with it,=C2=A0 Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Healeys =
<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Paul =
Leeks<br><b>Sent:</b> April 13, 2021 12:49 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Clutch renewal =
follow-up<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi =
chaps<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>A =
couple more questions, if I may ...<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I =
now have the gearbox off and the old clutch =
out.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Should I replace the whole cover assembly or, as it =
seems fine, can just I clean and reuse with the new clutch driven =
plate?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I =
may, as advised, get the flywheel resurfaced. Either way, should I =
use brake cleaner to clean the flywheel and clutch =
assembly?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Many thanks<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Paul Leeks<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>100/6 BN4<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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