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I haven't the foggiest but I can tell you in Humid Hong Kong, water can get
in there if you don't drive the car and it will screw everything up. I
think the little hole in the cap is good enough, the moss replacement cap
seal is fiddly, but I think it does a good job of stopping water from
getting into the system. If you drive the car all the time, the water
should work its way out of the fluid with each drive, so the trick it to
drive the car regularly if you can.
On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 11:29 AM Charley Braum via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> I changed over to Silicone Fluid many years ago whilst ignoring
> the 'degraded performance' warnings (as in - it will fade/fail
> in "spirited driving" situations) and my realised expectation of
> dodging (increasingly expensive, then and now) repairs to painted
> surfaces due to spilled fluid damage.
>
> I cannot attribute any issue with my brakes since to the fluid change.
>
> That said, I set up an experiment (years ago). I put enough Silicone
> Fluid in a glass baby bottle to fill it to half-way. I put the bottle,
> without
> a cap (open to the air) on a shelf in my unheated garage.
>
> After six months (and two season changes) I asked a business
> acquaintance to analyze my test sample, especially with regards
> to H2O content. His assessment was H2O was less than 1%.
>
> With a closed hydraulic system (our Healeys), once the system is
> charged and the bleeders are closed, the only interaction with
> the atmosphere is through the reservoir cap vent, I think.
>
> How does all this water get in the system?
>
> Best to all,
>
> Charley
>
> --
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">I haven't the foggiest but I can tell you in Humid Hon=
g Kong, water can get in there if you don't drive the car and it will s=
crew everything up.=C2=A0 I think the little hole in the cap is good enough=
, the moss replacement cap seal is fiddly, but I think it does a good job o=
f stopping water from getting into the system.=C2=A0 If you drive the car a=
ll the time, the water should work its way out of the fluid with each drive=
, so the trick it to drive the car regularly=C2=A0if you can.<div><br></div=
></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr"=
>On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 11:29 AM Charley Braum via Healeys <<a href=3D"=
mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></d=
iv><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I changed over to Sili=
cone Fluid many years ago whilst ignoring<br>
the 'degraded performance' warnings (as in - it will fade/fail<br>
in "spirited driving" situations) and my realised expectation of<=
br>
dodging (increasingly expensive, then and now) repairs to painted<br>
surfaces due to spilled fluid damage.<br>
<br>
I cannot attribute any issue with my brakes since to the fluid change.<br>
<br>
That said, I set up an experiment (years ago). I put enough Silicone<br>
Fluid in a glass baby bottle to fill it to half-way. I put the bottle, <br>
without<br>
a cap (open to the air) on a shelf in my unheated garage.<br>
<br>
After six months (and two season changes) I asked a business<br>
acquaintance to analyze my test sample, especially with regards<br>
to H2O content. His assessment was H2O was less than 1%.<br>
<br>
With a closed hydraulic system (our Healeys), once the system is<br>
charged and the bleeders are closed, the only interaction with<br>
the atmosphere is through the reservoir cap vent, I think.<br>
<br>
How does all this water get in the system?<br>
<br>
Best to all,<br>
<br>
Charley<br>
<br>
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</blockquote></div>
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