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Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
cooling system not being "large" enough.
My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
M
M
On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
> similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
> 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
> short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
> loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
> spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through
> the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend,
> after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a
> better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not
> of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>
> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>
> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
> I can dream).
>
> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
> an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
> look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
> the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
> considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
> a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
>> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
>> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
>> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
>> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
>> TY, Shawn
>>
>> The Millers
>>
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>> drive."
>>
>>
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--0000000000003705c005bce16bae
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><sp=
an style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">Yes Bob, there is something wrong=
with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being "large&qu=
ot; enough. <br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-siz=
e:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">My wifes Maxima is ar=
ound 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a=
couple of very effective electric fans but they really don't cut in ve=
ry often unless you have the AC on.</span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default=
" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">I&=
#39;m suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Va=
rley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the wa=
ter pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.<=
/span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><span st=
yle=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif"><br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">M</span><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"=
><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,=
sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"=
><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob =
Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a=
>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have
a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When
Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the
engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they
'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to mov=
e the
fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' =
of
severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there
are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual
radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump
(larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of
the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system =
to
block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears
this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still
gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the
improved pumps:<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Outp=
ut-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/" target=3D"_blank">https://www.classictbir=
d.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</=
a><br>
<br>
Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp.
on my BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on
Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which
the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast
iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help much if =
the
coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what I've foun=
d).
This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't hav=
e
a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task
to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).<=
br>
<br>
ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too
big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too
little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by
comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and
still suffers the same problem.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100
water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern
seal and sealed bearings.
<div dir=3D"auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the
annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the
original design so I have managed to install a considerably
smaller seal as in the pics attached.=C2=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes is now
fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is
gone.</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13
p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@au=
tox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer
noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net=
</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear
they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good?
Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated
pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the
standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone
confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</div>
<div>TY, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
=C2=A0<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antiqu=
e
car is a test drive."<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
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