Thanks for the good info, Mirek.
On the topic of tensioners, my '08 Mustang with 4.6L V8 used plastic
rail-type tensioners, that were tensioned by oil pressure. Ford calls
for their 5W-20 semi-syn oil in most (all?) of their big V8s, but some
owners decided they knew better than the Ford engineers and put 5W-30,
10W-30 and even thicker oil in their engines (Ford does spec a heavier
oil for track use, to be added before and drained after track use). As
it turns out, this caused some chain tensioners to break as the thicker
oils didn't pressurize the tensioners as quickly on startup, allowing
the tensioners to vibrate to destruction (an expensive fix, probably not
covered by warranty).
I can't find a definitive source--forums don't usually count--but I
think the 5.0L in my current Mustang has an ECU-controlled oil pressure
relief solenoid. OP in that car pops up to 100PSI on startup--assuming
the gauge is telling the truth--for a second, then drops to a more
'reasonable' value (actually pretty low for unstressed cruising). I
presume this is to assure that the top end, inc. the tensioners, get
pressurized quickly.
Bob
On 2/22/2021 12:08 PM, m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca wrote:
> The DW tensioner is significantly different from either of the two that
> Michael is referring to, and substantial more expensive than either. I did
> some "research" on the web (as a scientist I struggle calling that research)
> when investigating tensioners for my current rebuild and from what I can
> figure out there are at least three tensioners on the market that will work.
> This same tensioner fits MGBs, Jaguar XK engines and Land Rovers, and the
> majority of chatter on the web is from Jag and MGB owners.
>
> 1. This is the â??baseâ?? model which is readily available and is a copy
> of the original part. The web revealed a number of reports of the rubber
> pad un-bonding or the whole piston popping out. I suspect the latter must be
> due to a stretched chain allowing the piston to come out too far. Many of
> the failures of the rubber un-bonding are from racing applications but there
> are a lot from road cars as well. One English builder who races MGBs says
> that all his failures were on race engines and he thinks failures on road
> cars are very rare, but he is talking of MGBs. Many reports name the
> manufacturer as â??Rolonâ??, although there could be more than one source of
> this base model. This is the â??baseâ?? one that MOSS supplies and you can
> see â??Rolonâ?? stamped into the casting in their illustration. It is $13 USD
> 2. A French company called Renolds makes an upgraded tensioner that is
> visually similar to the original but apparently has better pad material this
> is the one Mike has illustrated on his post. I could only find one report of
> the bonding failing on this tensioner. Reports vary, but it seems this part
> is the OEM Jag replacement available from dealers as part # EAC3629. Some
> people had reported getting the Rolon part supplied from Jag dealers, and one
> report said both were available as OEM and â??upgradedâ?? OEM from his Jag
> dealer. This is the tensioner sold by MOSS as their â??premiumâ?? tensioner.
> It appears available from other sources including Jaguar dealerships. It is
> $90 USD.
> 3. The third one is described as a â??hydraulicâ?? tensioner. This is
> the one sold by DW for 130 GBP. I think that A-H spares sells the same one
> for 90 GBP, but the difference may be the VAT. The one from DW has â??DWRâ??
> stamped into it, but they may be adding that themselves. This has a nylon
> slipper and it is narrower than the chain, whereas the other two have rubber
> pads slightly wider than the chain. I cannot find any reports of this type
> failing, but I did find a report of it being a poor fit. Oddly, the chat
> lines that had extensive discussion â??Rolonâ?? vs â??Renoldsâ??, do not
> mention this tensioner at all, so no information on reliability, which really
> means no failures (who takes the front end apart to check the tensioner is
> OK?). However, I am sure that relatively speaking, very few of these have
> been fitted relative to all the Jag rebuilds using the Renolds unit and there
> are probably 1000s of the Rolon units running in MGBs.
>
> Regarding them all being hydraulic, there is a bit of confusion, but several
> sources say that the oil feed is just to lubricate the pad and the tension is
> all provided by the spring. However the DW one is said to be truly
> hydraulic. Whether oil pressures assists with tension on the first two, or
> dampens the piston movement caused by oscillations of the chain, has been
> raised as a question, but no definitive answer.
>
> That is the sum total of what I know about timing chain tensioners. For the
> record, I opted for Moss' "Premium" tensioner (#2 above).
>
> Cheers, Mirek
> '59 BT7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: February 22, 2021 12:22 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners
>
> I can't answer your question definitively, but can say--in hindsight--that I
> wish I'd installed DWM's upgraded tensioner on my BJ8's last overhaul.
> Expensive (relatively), sure, but failure of this part would be
> near-catastrophic, and I've heard anecdotally that aftermarket versions have
> failed (and I have an inherent distrust of any aftermarket part with rubber).
> How much is (relative) peace of mind worth?
>
> I installed DWM's flexible oil pump pipe in my BN2 on DWM's 'advice' and I'm
> glad I did. I know of at least one failure of the original, metal pipe (from
> someone on this list).
>
>
> On 2/22/2021 9:10 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>> I note that the usual suspects all now seem to be selling 2 grades of
>> 6 cylinder timing chain tensioners.
>> As far as I know the more expensive variety, which are 5 times the
>> cost of the less expensive type, are relatively new on the market.
>> They are apparently made in France and come in a Jaguar/ Land Rover
>> package.
>> These are slightly different from the originals in that there is a
>> lubrication hole in the rubber pad that I don't recall seeing on any
>> others that I have used.
>> In my experience until very recently the rubber slippers were not a
>> problem on these tensioners but wear of the piston was pretty common
>> on higher milage ones.
>> My question is are these "Premium " grade tensioners significantly
>> better and are they worth the extra cost?
>>
>
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