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Bob, I had continual problems for years with "overheating" -as indicated by
a gauge that wanted to hover around 200 in traffic on hot days. I tried a
lot of things that either didn't work at all or seemed to make the problem
worse. The only thing that finally fixed it was (1) calibrating the gauge
to make sure it was accurate (immerse the sensor in boiling water and adjust
the needle to lie between the two dots on the gauge at the 212 degree mark.
Mine was reading a bit high; (2) having my stock radiator re-cored with a
more modern core ($444). Any competent radiator shop will know how to do
that to improve cooling; (3) installing a 190-degree sleeved thermostat. I
have neither a pusher fan or a "shovel", but I do have a Texas Kooler fan.
It's normal for a Healey gauge to read 212 after the engine is shut down
when thoroughly warmed up, but not while driving down the road at 2000 -
4000 RPM.
In cooler weather my gauge will run at 165 - 170 when the engine is fully
warmed up, and on hotter days and in traffic around 180 - 190. It goes to
212 when the engine is shut off, like almost all other BJ8s I've paid
attention to.
I avoided having to pull the gauge out of the dash to calibrate it by using
a portable Coleman propane-powered stove to heat the water and supported the
stove on a wide board laid across the fenders, positioned so the sensor
could be immersed in the water.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Begani
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 6:36 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the
existing radiator
Listeners:
I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector
to direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to keep the coolant
temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 to
4000 rpms. However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive slower
or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with the radiator, I
believe it needs more cooling capacity. How many more core or tubes can be
installed in the standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who have done this
modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the coolant
temperature? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator because they
do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature.
Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to
keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls.
Have any of you found success with this modification?
Bob Begani
BJ8 67
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<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Bob, I had continual =
problems for
years with “overheating” –as indicated by a gauge that =
wanted
to hover around 200 in traffic on hot days. I tried a lot of =
things that
either didn’t work at all or seemed to make the problem =
worse. The
only thing that finally fixed it was (1) calibrating the gauge to make =
sure it
was accurate (immerse the sensor in boiling water and adjust the needle =
to lie
between the two dots on the gauge at the 212 degree mark. =
Mine was
reading a bit high; (2) having my stock radiator re-cored with a more =
modern
core ($444). Any competent radiator shop will know how to do that =
to
improve cooling; (3) installing a 190-degree sleeved thermostat. =
I
have neither a pusher fan or a “shovel”, but I do have a =
Texas
Kooler fan. It’s normal for a Healey gauge to read 212 after =
the
engine is shut down when thoroughly warmed up, but not while driving =
down the
road at 2000 – 4000 RPM.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>In cooler weather my =
gauge will
run at 165 – 170 when the engine is fully warmed up, and on hotter =
days and
in traffic around 180 – 190. It goes to 212 when the =
engine
is shut off, like almost all other BJ8s I’ve paid attention =
to. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I avoided having to =
pull the
gauge out of the dash to calibrate it by using a portable Coleman
propane-powered stove to heat the water and supported the stove on a =
wide board
laid across the fenders, positioned so the sensor could be immersed in =
the
water.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Steve =
Byers<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>HBJ8L/36666<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>BJ8 =
Registry<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>AHCA Delegate at =
Large<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Havelock, NC =
USA<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<div>
<div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt =
0in 0in 0in'>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Robert =
Begani<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, January 13, 2020 6:36 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes =
to the
existing radiator<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Listeners:<o:=
p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'><o:p> </=
o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>I
have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector =
to
direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to keep the =
coolant
temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 =
to 4000
rpms. However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive =
slower or
stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with the radiator, I
believe it needs more cooling capacity. How many more core or =
tubes can
be installed in the standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who =
have done
this modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the =
coolant
temperature? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator =
because they
do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant =
temperature.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'><o:p> </=
o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Another
modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to keep =
the heat
from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls. Have any of =
you
found success with this modification?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'><o:p> </=
o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'><o:p> </=
o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Bob
Begani<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>BJ8
67<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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