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As the rear brake linings have been exposed to oil, even very little,
replace them forthwith. You will not be able to clean them completely
free of oil. You also have replaced the font brake pads recently. Did
you use the original compound/make/type? These days EBC Greenstuff is
widely suggested as a good modern replacement in older cars. If you use
Girling/Lockheed/Don/Mintex/etc. or equivalent pads you probably should
not use the *H*ard compound but the *M*edium compound, preferably NOS
asbestos containing ones if you can get hold of them.
Glazing of the discs could be a sign that the brakes are slightly
binding or that you are very gentle when braking. Brakes should be used
hard once in a while to clean the pads and discs and to prevent the
pistons getting stuck.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 29-9-2019 om 22:39 schreef Michael Oritt:
>
>
>
> Whether due to aging of the driver or brake materials--or both--it
> appears that lately I must exert a lot of pedal pressure to get
> what seems like less braking response. I know this is a very
> subjective statement and I have no way of quantifying the braking
> but I have been driving my car for 20 years and am sure that it
> just isn't stopping the way it used to.
>
> Here is some background information:
>
> 1. I just, as in last week, replaced the brake hoses front and
> rear with a set of braided stainless hoses obtained from Old
> Phartz. I used him as opposed to Moss or other suppliers because I
> have BT7 front discs and stock 100 rears which take a different
> rear hose than the 6-cylinder cars, and he was willing to "Mix and
> Match" the later front hoses and original rear hose, whereas Moss
> only wanted to sell me two kits. It took a bit longer to obtain
> them than originally promised but what came in was great--actually
> about 3/4" more in length which made installation a bit easier.
>
> 2. I also just--last week--rebuilt the master cylinder and
> installed new rear wheel cylinders, and in the process flushed the
> hydraulic system entirely and refilled with Wilwood 570 high-temp
> Dot 4 fluid. The system is positively bled and the pedal is nice
> and hard and where it should be with just a bit of free movement.
>
> 3. The front pads and rear shoes have been replaced within the
> last twelve months and probably have less than 3K miles on them.
> Nevertheless the rotors seem to have a "glazed" appearance and the
> rear shoes have definitely been exposed to some slight leakage of
> diff oil, though not enough to saturate them.
> Shoes and drums were cleaned following cylinder replacement.
>
> 4. I have a restrictor valve on the line to the rear brakes which,
> when turned down all the way, reduces fluid flow to approximately
> 60% of wide open. I have the valve turned all the way to
> reduced-flow in order to maximize fluid delivery/pressure to the
> front brakes as they do most of the work. There is a definite
> falling off in brake performance as the valve is opened.
>
> 5. The rear brakes are properly adjusted and the parking brake is
> functional when engaged.
>
> 6. I can, with extreme pedal pressure, lock the front brakes with
> little or no side-to-side pulling.
>
> 7. Tires are Michelin XAS with plenty of tread and 30 psi all around.
>
> I just lost my lease to a warehouse space I have been renting and
> must clear out in a few weeks, so for that and other reasons I am
> not able to undertake any big project such as putting in a servo
> or replacing the front rotors with some racing stuff or rear
> brakes with discs, etc. However I am able to put on new front pads
> and rear shoes, and perhaps have the front rotors turned if need
> be. So I guess what I am looking for is some recommendations on
> what materials I might use to give good braking with reasonable
> pedal effort. I do my racing on a track in my other cars and am
> */not /*looking to equip the Healey with rock hard pads/shoes. I
> merely want to improve the car's braking so I do not have to stand
> on the pedal to get the car to stop.
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 1954 BN1 LeMans
>
>
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>
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<p>As the rear brake linings have been exposed to oil, even very
little, replace them forthwith. You will not be able to clean them
completely free of oil. You also have replaced the font brake pads
recently. Did you use the original compound/make/type? These days
EBC Greenstuff is widely suggested as a good modern replacement in
older cars. If you use Girling/Lockheed/Don/Mintex/etc. or
equivalent pads you probably should not use the <b>H</b>ard
compound but the <b>M</b>edium compound, preferably NOS asbestos
containing ones if you can get hold of them.</p>
<p>Glazing of the discs could be a sign that the brakes are slightly
binding or that you are very gentle when braking. Brakes should be
used hard once in a while to clean the pads and discs and to
prevent the pistons getting stuck.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 29-9-2019 om 22:39 schreef Michael
Oritt:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B6=H_6ptYAk42oM0wa_8+G42rxr7bwxBSriq1sjzhm=qQ@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">
<h2 class="gmail-title gmail-icon" style="margin:0px 0px
5px;padding:10px 10px 5px
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<div id="gmail-post_message_1121875"
style="margin:0px;padding:0px">
<blockquote class="gmail-postcontent gmail-restore"
style="margin:0px;padding:0px;overflow:hidden">Whether
due to aging of the driver or brake materials--or
both--it appears that lately I must exert a lot of pedal
pressure to get what seems like less braking response. I
know this is a very subjective statement and I have no
way of quantifying the braking but I have been driving
my car for 20 years and am sure that it just isn't
stopping the way it used to.<br>
<br>
Here is some background information:<br>
<br>
1. I just, as in last week, replaced the brake hoses
front and rear with a set of braided stainless hoses
obtained from Old Phartz. I used him as opposed to Moss
or other suppliers because I have BT7 front discs and
stock 100 rears which take a different rear hose than
the 6-cylinder cars, and he was willing to "Mix and
Match" the later front hoses and original rear hose,
whereas Moss only wanted to sell me two kits. It took a
bit longer to obtain them than originally promised but
what came in was great--actually about 3/4" more in
length which made installation a bit easier.<br>
<br>
2. I also just--last week--rebuilt the master cylinder
and installed new rear wheel cylinders, and in the
process flushed the hydraulic system entirely and
refilled with Wilwood 570 high-temp Dot 4 fluid. The
system is positively bled and the pedal is nice and hard
and where it should be with just a bit of free movement.<br>
<br>
3. The front pads and rear shoes have been replaced
within the last twelve months and probably have less
than 3K miles on them. Nevertheless the rotors seem to
have a "glazed" appearance and the rear shoes have
definitely been exposed to some slight leakage of diff
oil, though not enough to saturate them.<br>
Shoes and drums were cleaned following cylinder
replacement.<br>
<br>
4. I have a restrictor valve on the line to the rear
brakes which, when turned down all the way, reduces
fluid flow to approximately 60% of wide open. I have the
valve turned all the way to reduced-flow in order to
maximize fluid delivery/pressure to the front brakes as
they do most of the work. There is a definite falling
off in brake performance as the valve is opened.<br>
<br>
5. The rear brakes are properly adjusted and the parking
brake is functional when engaged.<br>
<br>
6. I can, with extreme pedal pressure, lock the front
brakes with little or no side-to-side pulling.<br>
<br>
7. Tires are Michelin XAS with plenty of tread and 30
psi all around.<br>
<br>
I just lost my lease to a warehouse space I have been
renting and must clear out in a few weeks, so for that
and other reasons I am not able to undertake any big
project such as putting in a servo or replacing the
front rotors with some racing stuff or rear brakes with
discs, etc. However I am able to put on new front pads
and rear shoes, and perhaps have the front rotors turned
if need be. So I guess what I am looking for is some
recommendations on what materials I might use to give
good braking with reasonable pedal effort. I do my
racing on a track in my other cars and
am <b><i>not </i></b>looking
to equip the Healey with rock hard pads/shoes. I merely
want to improve the car's braking so I do not have to
stand on the pedal to get the car to stop.<br>
<br>
<br>
Best--Michael Oritt<br>
1954 BN1 LeMans</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
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href="http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>Healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
</pre>
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