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Do you perhaps have an electric Smiths or Jaeger clock fitted which is
not working?
If not running they can draw a small continuous current and drain the
battery.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 7-6-2019 om 16:04 schreef Gil Rockwell:
>
> Hi Price,
>
> The easiest way to find the phantom draw is to put a 12 volt bulb (use
> a socket for the bulb with a couple of pieces of wire to connect to
> the battery using "alligator clips" if available) or _non_-LED test
> light in series with the positive lead of the battery cable (at the
> battery) and with the ignition off, look at the bulb. If glowing,
> then start disconnecting one item at a time until it goes out. If the
> diode in the alternator is bad, disconnecting the positive lead at the
> alternator will extinguish the light. Heat may cause the diode to
> "leak" current and once it cools down, it may stop, so it may be heat
> dependent. In any case, an alternator repair shop can test and
> replace it for you. You also can buy, typically at NAPA and
> replacement diode assembly and install it yourself, not hard to do,
> use an impact wrench to remove the pulley nut and then the screws
> holding the case together and slip it apart. The hardest part is
> holding back the brushes when re-assembling, but there are holes that
> a straightened paper clip will fit in the hold the brushes back until
> you re-assemble. If not the diodes in the alternator, it can be
> anything electrical, so disconnecting obvious loads individually will
> always find the culprit. Not disconnecting more than one load at a
> time is important so that you don't go down a "rabbit hole" chasing
> many things at once. Â Â If you have a radio, that may be a good place
> to start, lights are always a possibility, have you checked the brake
> lights? Are they staying on? Pulling the fuses, one a time can ease
> the task of finding a circuit that is draining the battery. If the
> battery disconnect switch is truly "off", there should be no current
> flowing from the battery and the voltage should remain within a few
> tenths of a volt of the original reading  when measured at the battery
> terminals after shutting the car off, even a day or two later.
>
> I can answer more direct questions after you have tried a few of the
> above suggestions.
>
> Gil
>
> 61 BT7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R.
> Lindsay
> Sent: Friday, June 07, 2019 8:47 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw
>
> For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my
> BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day
> or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must
> have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my
> ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the
> car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the
> battery was dead.
>
> So, hereâ??s what Iâ??ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car
> and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the
> battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the
> grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading.
> That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the
> battery reads 12.33 volts.
>
> My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a
> sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work
> sometimes and not at others. If itâ??s either â??good or badâ?? all the
> time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of
> the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing
> the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is
> good (as it works fine now) solved my problem.
>
> What does the wisdom of this great resource think?
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
>
> Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
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<p>Do you perhaps have an electric Smiths or Jaeger clock fitted
which is not working?</p>
<p>If not running they can draw a small continuous current and drain
the battery.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 7-6-2019 om 16:04 schreef Gil
Rockwell:<br>
</div>
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<p class="MsoPlainText">Hi Price,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">The easiest way to find the phantom draw
is to put a 12 volt bulb (use a socket for the bulb with a
couple of pieces of wire to connect to the battery using
"alligator clips" if available) or <u>non</u>-LED test light
in series with the positive lead of the battery cable (at the
battery) and with the ignition off, look at the bulb. If
glowing, then start disconnecting one item at a time until it
goes out. If the diode in the alternator is bad,
disconnecting the positive lead at the alternator will
extinguish the light. Heat may cause the diode to "leak"
current and once it cools down, it may stop, so it may be heat
dependent. In any case, an alternator repair shop can test
and replace it for you. You also can buy, typically at NAPA
and replacement diode assembly and install it yourself, not
hard to do, use an impact wrench to remove the pulley nut and
then the screws holding the case together and slip it apart.Â
The hardest part is holding back the brushes when
re-assembling, but there are holes that a straightened paper
clip will fit in the hold the brushes back until you
re-assemble. If not the diodes in the alternator, it can be
anything electrical, so disconnecting obvious loads
individually will always find the culprit. Not disconnecting
more than one load at a time is important so that you don't go
down a "rabbit hole" chasing many things at once. Â Â If you
have a radio, that may be a good place to start, lights are
always a possibility, have you checked the brake lights? Are
they staying on? Pulling the fuses, one a time can ease the
task of finding a circuit that is draining the battery. If
the battery disconnect switch is truly "off", there should be
no current flowing from the battery and the voltage should
remain within a few tenths of a volt of the original reading
 when measured at the battery terminals after shutting the car
off, even a day or two later. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">I can answer more direct questions after
you have tried a few of the above suggestions. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">Gil<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">61 BT7<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Healeys [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
On
Behalf Of R. Lindsay<br>
Sent: Friday, June 07, 2019 8:47 AM<br>
To: Healey List<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw</p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">For the past few weeks I have been
fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48
amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by
a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown
therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground
wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the
car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later
the battery was dead. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">So, hereâ??s what Iâ??ve done. I jumped the
battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I
disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts.
I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding
wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading.
That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later)
and the battery reads 12.33 volts. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a
reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat
and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at
others. If itâ??s either â??good or badâ?? all the time, I guess I
need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw.
If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing
the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the
alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem.
<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">What does the wisdom of this great
resource think?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">Price Lindsay<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">Cell: 630-841-6300<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">Email: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:050.rpl@gmail.com";>050.rpl@gmail.com</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoPlainText">Sent from my iPhone<o:p></o:p></p>
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