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First ascertain if the polarity of board is correct.
When setting the fork use a plastic tool to move it around. The end
position is such that the fork just does not catch on the magnet. It
takes a bit of fiddling before it starts up but once going it is fairly
clear what the correct position is with the fastest rate.
These electronic pumps/conversions are said to be not to reliable and
cannot compete against the old points system.
The only problem with the points pump is that it should be set up
properly, a very easy and simple job, and then used regularly to keep
the points clean. When storing a pump slide a bit of acid free paper
between the points to prevent electrolytic corrosion. The same if the
car is not in use for a long time.
I have had more than 160.000 miles in 11 years from my SU pump without
any attention to it. After that (1985) the car was laid up but was
started up every year or so until about 2000, never a problem. A few
years ago I tried to start up the car again and the pump failed. When
dismantling it, the points were corroded with nice cauliflowers around
them. But what amazed me most was that the internals were as clean as a
whistle, no corrosion, no gummed up deposits, just nice and shiny cast
aluminium. After cleaning and polishing the points and adjusting them
properly it was as new again on its original points, diaphragm and
valves and now runs in my present car. The pump is now 45 years old.
One big advantage of the pump running on points is that if it fails en
route, you can usually get it going again by sliding a bit of fine
sandpaper between the points
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 10-11-2018 om 00:52 schreef Albert Seminatore:
> I am not the only one with this problem.
> After installing the pointless board for SU fuel pump in a 1960 AH BT7
> the pump wont work.
> AFTER APPLING POWER
> Â The coil is energized which raises the magnet.
> Â Â Moving the Hall fork does nothing the magnet stays raised.
> Â Â Switch the wires on the board (Red and Black to the Coil)Â the
> magnet stays raised.
> I have called SU in the UK. I have called both Dave DuBois and Udo
> Putzke. The answer was find someone in the local area who can repair
> it. Well in the desert tortoises don't understand electronics.
>
> So I am appealing to this list hoping some one has had this problem
> and knows how to resolve it OR knows someone who had the skill and
> test equipment to fix it. Any and all help is appreciated.
> .........................   Al
>
> Well i
>
> --
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
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<p>First ascertain if the polarity of board is correct.</p>
<p>When setting the fork use a plastic tool to move it around. The
end position is such that the fork just does not catch on the
magnet. It takes a bit of fiddling before it starts up but once
going it is fairly clear what the correct position is with the
fastest rate.</p>
<p>These electronic pumps/conversions are said to be not to reliable
and cannot compete against the old points system. <br>
</p>
<p>The only problem with the points pump is that it should be set up
properly, a very easy and simple job, and then used regularly to
keep the points clean. When storing a pump slide a bit of acid
free paper between the points to prevent electrolytic corrosion.
The same if the car is not in use for a long time.</p>
<p>I have had more than 160.000 miles in 11 years from my SU pump
without any attention to it. After that (1985) the car was laid up
but was started up every year or so until about 2000, never a
problem. A few years ago I tried to start up the car again and the
pump failed. When dismantling it, the points were corroded with
nice cauliflowers around them. But what amazed me most was that
the internals were as clean as a whistle, no corrosion, no gummed
up deposits, just nice and shiny cast aluminium. After cleaning
and polishing the points and adjusting them properly it was as new
again on its original points, diaphragm and valves and now runs in
my present car. The pump is now 45 years old.</p>
<p>One big advantage of the pump running on points is that if it
fails en route, you can usually get it going again by sliding a
bit of fine sandpaper between the points<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 10-11-2018 om 00:52 schreef Albert
Seminatore:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAEEMJ+3Mm=muP30anMcpfn1LbCgT=0f-7OuekbN561yUuQkBaQ@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>I am not the only one with this problem.</div>
<div>After installing the pointless board for SU fuel pump in a
1960 AH BT7 the pump wont work. <br>
</div>
<div>AFTER APPLING POWER<br>
</div>
<div>Â The coil is energized which raises the magnet.</div>
<div>Â Â Moving the Hall fork does nothing the magnet stays
raised.<br>
</div>
<div>Â Â Switch the wires on the board (Red and Black to the
Coil)Â the magnet stays raised.</div>
<div>I have called SU in the UK. I have called both Dave DuBois
and Udo Putzke. The answer was find someone in the local area
who can repair it. Well in the desert tortoises don't
understand electronics.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So I am appealing to this list hoping some one has had this
problem and knows how to resolve it OR knows someone who had
the skill and test equipment to fix it. Any and all help is
appreciated.</div>
<div>.........................   Al<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Well i<br>
</div>
<div><br>
-- <br>
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"
data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div><span style="font-family:garamond,serif">Albert
Seminatore</span><br>
</div>
Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV<br>
</div>
eMail:Â <a href="mailto:alsemus1@gmail.com"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">alsemus1@gmail.com</a><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
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