This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============2162423889148934371==
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0495_01D47557.00322D80"
Content-Language: en-us
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0495_01D47557.00322D80
charset="ks_c_5601-1987"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Yes, the nut is more recessed into the Pro Race damper than the =
original.
I've been using a spanner on the nut to turn the crank for adjusting
valves, and it doesn't appear I'll be able to do that anymore, at least =
as
securely.
I purchased a 1-11/16" socket and 1/2" drive to 3/4" drive adapter and =
was
able to unscrew the nut (after knocking back the bent-over lock washer)
with a long-handled torque wrench. The socket and adapter came in handy
while pounding the damper onto the crankshaft, but the X-brace behind =
the
radiator makes pounding a bit difficult by restricting the space to =
swing
the hammer. Once the damper appeared to reach the Woodruff key, I used =
the
socket and torque wrench on the nut to push the damper home. I also =
marked
the position of the damper keyway on the hub to be sure that I could =
line
it up while the damper was hot.
Because of the deeper recess and the tight fit of the tabbed lock washer
into the recess, I could not figure out how to bend over the new washer, =
so
I just used it as a washer and used blue Loc-Tite on the shaft and nut
threads (as indicated by the instructions that came with the damper).
I had to file the diameter of the washer to get it to fit into the =
recess
at all.
=20
Having done this job without removing the grille, I think I would remove =
it
if I had to do it again. With the socket in the recess and an extension
long enough to reach beyond the grille opening, it would be much quicker
and easier to swing the hammer and drive the damper onto the shaft.
=20
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC =20
=20
=20
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 11:34 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Damper nut.
=20
I=A1=AFve changed my mind and am going to get a Pro Race damper.=20
I=A1=AFve removed that nut before as I recall. Years ago. I bought a =
great lump
of a (single-ended) spanner at a place that sold mainly army surplus =
stuff.
I put it on the nut and whacked it..hard. Worked fine.
It has 1=A8=FB=A1=B1 BS on one side & 1=A1=B1W on the other side.
It measures 1.68=A1=B1 or42.46mm.=20
Looking at photos, I don=A1=AFt think that I=A1=AFll be able to use that =
spanner to
do the nut up all the way once I=A1=AFve got the Pro Race onto the =
shaft.
Access=A1=A6.looks like the nut=A1=AFs position is more recessed. I need =
a socket
of some kind.
1. And I reckon that 1=A1=B1W(hitworth) is the same size as a =
111/16=A1=B1AF.
Am I correct?
2. What did you guys use?
3. And I gather that the original washer won=A1=AFt fit in the recess or
that one can=A1=AFt get at it in order to turn one side up. What do you =
suggest?
=20
Thanks,
Simon
------=_NextPart_000_0495_01D47557.00322D80
charset="ks_c_5601-1987"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml"; =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40";><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dks_c_5601-1987"><meta name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft =
Word 12 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Gulim;
panose-1:2 11 6 0 0 1 1 1 1 1;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Calibri;
panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Comic Sans MS";
panose-1:3 15 7 2 3 3 2 2 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:"\@Gulim";
panose-1:2 11 6 0 0 1 1 1 1 1;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:#0563C1;
text-decoration:underline;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:#954F72;
text-decoration:underline;}
p.MsoAcetate, li.MsoAcetate, div.MsoAcetate
{mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-link:"Balloon Text Char";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:8.0pt;
font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";}
p.MsoListParagraph, li.MsoListParagraph, div.MsoListParagraph
{mso-style-priority:34;
margin-top:0in;
margin-right:0in;
margin-bottom:0in;
margin-left:.5in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";}
span.EmailStyle18
{mso-style-type:personal;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:windowtext;}
span.EmailStyle19
{mso-style-type:personal-reply;
font-family:"Comic Sans MS";
color:#002060;
font-weight:normal;
font-style:normal;}
span.BalloonTextChar
{mso-style-name:"Balloon Text Char";
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-link:"Balloon Text";
font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
font-size:10.0pt;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
/* List Definitions */
@list l0
{mso-list-id:1435856053;
mso-list-template-ids:1268665606;}
ol
{margin-bottom:0in;}
ul
{margin-bottom:0in;}
--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>Yes, the nut is more recessed into the Pro Race =
damper than the original. I've been using a spanner on the nut to =
turn the crank for adjusting valves, and it doesn't appear I'll be able =
to do that anymore, at least as securely.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>I purchased a 1-11/16" socket and 1/2" =
drive to 3/4" drive adapter and was able to unscrew the nut (after =
knocking back the bent-over lock washer) with a long-handled torque =
wrench. The socket and adapter came in handy while pounding the =
damper onto the crankshaft, but the X-brace behind the radiator makes =
pounding a bit difficult by restricting the space to swing the =
hammer. Once the damper appeared to reach the Woodruff key, I used =
the socket and torque wrench on the nut to push the damper home. I =
also marked the position of the damper keyway on the hub to be sure that =
I could line it up while the damper was hot.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>Because of the deeper recess and the tight fit of the =
tabbed lock washer into the recess, I could not figure out how to bend =
over the new washer, so I just used it as a washer and used blue =
Loc-Tite on the shaft and nut threads (as indicated by the instructions =
that came with the damper).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>I had to file the diameter of the washer to get it to =
fit into the recess at all.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>Having done this job without removing the grille, I =
think I would remove it if I had to do it again. With the socket =
in the recess and an extension long enough to reach beyond the grille =
opening, it would be much quicker and easier to swing the hammer and =
drive the damper onto the shaft.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>Steve Byers</span><span =
style=3D'color:#002060'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>HBJ8L/36666</span><span =
style=3D'color:#002060'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#002060'>BJ8 =
Registry</span><span style=3D'color:#002060'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>AHCA Delegate at Large</span><span =
style=3D'color:#002060'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#002060'>Havelock, NC =
</span><span style=3D'color:#002060'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#002060'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, November =
05, 2018 11:34 AM<br><b>To:</b> Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] =
Damper nut.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>I=A1=AFve changed my mind and am going to get a Pro Race =
damper. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>I=A1=AFve removed that nut before as I recall. Years ago. I =
bought a great lump of a (single-ended) spanner at a place that sold =
mainly army surplus stuff. I put it on the nut and whacked it..hard. =
Worked fine.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>It has 1=A8=FB=A1=B1 BS on one side & 1=A1=B1W on the =
other side.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>It measures 1.68=A1=B1 or42.46mm. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Looking at photos, I don=A1=AFt =
think that I=A1=AFll be able to use that spanner to do the nut up all =
the way once I=A1=AFve got the Pro Race onto the shaft. =
Access=A1=A6.looks like the nut=A1=AFs position is more recessed. I need =
a socket of some kind.<o:p></o:p></span></p><ol style=3D'margin-top:0in' =
start=3D1 type=3D1><li class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><span lang=3DEN-GB>And I reckon that 1=A1=B1W(hitworth) is the =
same size as a 111/16=A1=B1AF. Am I correct?<o:p></o:p></span></li><li =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>What did you guys use?<o:p></o:p></span></li><li =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>And I gather that the original washer won=A1=AFt fit in the =
recess or that one can=A1=AFt get at it in order to turn one side up. =
What do you suggest?<o:p></o:p></span></li></ol><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_0495_01D47557.00322D80--
--===============2162423889148934371==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
--===============2162423889148934371==--
|