I used to work alot with pneumatic winches and they had a friction brake that
would at times not hold. One of the tricks in a pinch was to put a little comet
cleanser powder on the surface and that worked well, any fine abrasive powder
would likely do the same.
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: healeys-request@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 04 Nov 2018 14:00:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 336
Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
healeys@autox.team.net
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. MORE: Lucas electronic voltage regulator (Alex)
2. How to keep the door open (Albert Seminatore)
3. Re: How to keep the door open (Michael Oritt)
4. Re: How to keep the door open (goldengt)
5. Re: How to keep the door open (John Spaur)
6. Re: How to keep the door open (Michael Salter)
7. Refinishing dashboard wood (Bruce Peters)
8. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Kees Oudesluijs)
9. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (insidedim@aol.com)
10. Re: How to keep the door open (Warren)
11. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Tom)
12. Re: Stuff!! (dwflagg@juno.com)
13. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Stephen Hutchings)
14. Re: Healey 100-4 timing (Bob Spidell)
15. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (glemon@neb.rr.com)
16. Re: How to keep the door open (Albert Seminatore)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 16:23:44 -0400
From: Alex <alexmm@roadrunner.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] MORE: Lucas electronic voltage regulator
While a solid-state regulator has no moving parts, and may provide
tighter regulation than a classic old-fashioned mechanical regulator,
keep in mind that the components on the solid-state circuit board are
subject to shock, vibration, and temperature extremes.
The substrate itself (the printed circuit board) is also subject to
these factors. Under the bonnet is a hostile environment for electronics.
From the photos, it's clear the integrated circuits are small-outline
surface-mount devices. The pins on these ICs are very small and on a
fine pitch (close together).?? Also, ICs are rated in three categories:
0-70 degrees C, -25 to +85 degrees C., and -55 degrees C to +125 degrees C.
These three categories are dubbed "commercial," industrial," and
"military," respectively. Which temperature-range devices are used on
these boards?
Also, notice the sub-board, which looks like a plug-in. Separable
interconnects are also subject to failure due to oxidation and vibration.
Just some thoughts.
== Alex in Maine, 1960 BT7, "The Blue Mainie"
On 11/3/2018 11:57 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
>
> Thanks, Chris.? I appreciate all the input. ?I received the diagnosis
> on my generator Friday, and I?m going to proceed with having it
> rebuilt.? I?m also going to contact Dean Sprague of Vintage
> Mecha-Tronics (www.vintagemechatronics.com
> <http://www.vintagemechatronics.com>) this week regarding their
> electronic regulator.? The quality of the Lucas electronic unit is
> suspect based on the comments received, which are echoed in the
> information on Mecha-Tronics website.
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
> *From:*Chris Masucci [mailto:cmmasucci@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 31, 2018 4:19 AM
> *To:* healey.nut@gmail.com
> *Cc:* healeybruce@roadrunner.com; Healey List <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Lucas electronic voltage regulator
>
> In my opinion, whether you need more current supply or not isn't the
> primary reason to go with an alternator or an electronic voltage
> regulator.? Either will provide a more stable voltage to the system,
> which is good for anything electrical including points and coils,
> overdrive solenoids, fuel pumps and especially electronic ignitions
> like pertronix etc..? If you have an electronic tach like on the later
> cars, it will be more stable too and happier with a cleaner power
> source. I would use the electronic regulator if you decide to rebuild
> the generator.
>
> Chris
>
> On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 6:08 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com
>
> I would just rebuild the genny. are you planning on running a 300
> amp stereo system in your car or something?
>
> On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 9:13 AM Bruce Steele
> wrote:
>
> Somewhat related to my prior post.? Should I decide to rebuild
> the generator, anyone have experience with the electronic
> voltage regulator?
>
>
> https://www.bpnorthwest.com/voltage-regulator-digital-lucas-screw-in-terminal.html
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 30, 2018 11:05 AM
> *To:* Bruce Steele <healeybruce@roadrunner.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Accuspark Dynamator
>
> Cheaper to get your generator rebuilt.? Re-install, then drive
> it.? Not a big deal.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Tuesday, October 30, 2018 7:36 AM, Bruce Steele
> <healeybruce@roadrunner.com
>
> Hi, all. My generator failed and I'm considering my options.
> Anyone have any input on the AccuSpark Dynamator (which is an
> alternator in a dynamo case)? Peter Rosesinstalled one
> recently, and suggested I consider it. The north American
> distributor is Brit Bits in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. I'd
> prefer retaining the traditional look of the generator over an
> alternator. Of course, rebuilding the generator is an option,
> but my car is not concours so that is not really a
> consideration. Certainly the higher output of the alternator
> (the Dynamator is 45 amps) is a significant improvement to
> drive all those electrical components on our Healeys.
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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---
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 13:46:43 -0700
From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
Message-ID:
<CAEEMJ+3Q0fPv4uZ6J=cZ4bD0ip4bP4jGWTBR_8eQkAtz=DrMxw@mail.gmail.com>
I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger
door is ok.
I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good. There
is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either.
The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth -
like glass smooth.
What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
................... Al
--
Albert Seminatore
Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 18:41:29 -0400
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
Message-ID:
<CAPTa0B647mjiSPv_rOVMJMtPuCp4_fFRLtKSYQ0fXiG_wayXcw@mail.gmail.com>
Buy a replacement door check.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 6:07 PM Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger
> door is ok.
> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
> either. The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
> smooth - like glass smooth.
>
> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
> ................... Al
>
> --
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
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>
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2018 16:21:10 -0700
From: goldengt <goldengt@cal.net>
To: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>, Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could weld in
a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller nut. Get the
left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.Ken Freese?Sent from my
Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
Date: 11/3/18 1:46 PM (GMT-08:00) To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open I have a BT7 whose drivers door
won't stay open any more.? The passenger door is ok.I have tried tightening the
friction washer but it wont do any good.? There is a new "friction washer"
installed but it doesn't do any good either.? The metal pieces have been
"polished" over the years and are VERY smooth - like glass smooth.What do other
folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door
open?...................?? Al-- Albert SeminatoreMountain Falls, Pahrump,
NVeMail:? alsemus1@gmail.com
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 16:33:47 -0700
From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Albert Seminatore'" <alsemus1@gmail.com>, "'Healey List'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
Are the screws stripped? One is a left hand screw.
John
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Albert
Seminatore
Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 1:47 PM
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger door
is ok.
I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good. There is
a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either. The metal
pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth - like glass
smooth.
What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
.................. Al
--
Albert Seminatore
Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 20:03:31 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
To: goldengt <goldengt@cal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net, Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
Message-ID:
<CAB3i7LLRP-Ffngfq6G2SS0pBp38TTxypoh1WRnBo+oQbz9u8Kg@mail.gmail.com>
Another source for left hand threads is turnbuckles but as I recall the
left door uses a right hand thread.
M
On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 7:48 PM goldengt <goldengt@cal.net wrote:
> The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could
> weld in a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller
> nut. Get the left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.
> Ken Freese
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
> Date: 11/3/18 1:46 PM (GMT-08:00)
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
>
> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger
> door is ok.
> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
> either. The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
> smooth - like glass smooth.
>
> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
> ................... Al
>
> --
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 20:12:53 -0700
From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
Hi all,
My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type of
finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it all off.
Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to do some
restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
Bruce
Sent from my iPad
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 06:40:59 +0100
From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
I have done this on a TR6. The lacquer was probably epoxy as it did not
respond to solvents, so I had to sand away the coat. Be very careful as
the wood surface may be a very thin veneer easily damaged by sanding.
use 400 grade. I used many coats of boat lacquer to finish the dash to
build up before sanding the top coat smooth, first with 600, followed by
2000 and a cutting compound to achieve a highly glossy finish.
Not difficult but very tedious.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 4-11-2018 om 04:12 schreef Bruce Peters:
> Hi all,
> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type
> of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it all
> off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to do
> some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>
> Bruce
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 03:54:35 -0500
From: insidedim@aol.com
To: rv9aplane@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
In the early 90's I acquired a BJ8 that had been abandoned for 8 yrs. that had
been sitting outside with a hole in the convertible top. Someone had stolen
the glove box side, presumably for the lock, so that piece wasn't there. The
gauge side was there but badly cracked like yours so I removed the finish back
to the plywood. I purchased some marine plywood and made a new glove box side
and bought some bookmatched burl walnut veneers to cover both pieces. I
finished the new veneers with maybe a dozen or more coats of marine varnish,
sanded between coats and finished with carnauba wax. The result was
spectacular. Good luck.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 4, 2018 12:23 am
Subject: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
Hi all,My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what
type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it
all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to do
some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.BruceSent
from my iPad_______________________________________________Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive:
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage:
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 05:28:18 -0500
From: Warren <flyhihealey@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
Just went through this. For the ?nth time over my 51 year ownership. Michael
Salter?s idea of the turnbuckle threads and taller nuts to grab more threads
worked very well. New wood discs. It too finally stripped and I
chased the threads and tried a new nut but the threads would not hold. Would
not bite low enough on good threads.
Time to just buy a new check system($70 +\-). I already have 2 sets of
these(also non workable) things from donor doors. I must say the passenger door
works just fine. Always the driver door, for obvious reason, is problematic.
One more try before I pulled out the credit card. Found a thin cork washer,
half the thickness of the wood one and similar diameter, and it allowed the new
nut to just grab those few good threads at the bottom. It worked! At least for
now?
WD 67BJ8
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 7:23 PM
To: Albert Seminatore
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
Buy a replacement door check.
Best--Michael Oritt?
On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 6:07 PM Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com wrote:
I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.? The passenger door
is ok.
I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.? There is
a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either.? The metal
pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth - like glass
smooth.
What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
...................?? Al
--
Albert Seminatore
Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
eMail:? alsemus1@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 08:26:13 -0500
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: rv9aplane@gmail.com
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
Message-ID:
<CANQM1PLQS4+DC0dxzK2nNtOt2fKBWC5oYswjkATJ7QZcBymbsA@mail.gmail.com>
Bruce,
I used a single-edged razor blade to carefully slip under a cracked edge
and lift the old clear coat off. YMMV. After I removed the old clear coat,
I lightly sanded it with a very fine grit. Other folks on this list have
said the veneer is very thin, so don't overdo sanding.
After sanding I wiped a mix of mahogany/walnut Minwax oil-based stain on
the veneer. I added very little color to it. If you're going for a
concours-quality car, staining may or may not be the best thing to do.
I used Envirotex Lite for the new finish. Several folks on this list
recommend it, and it worked very well. It's a heavy epoxy that self levels:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEMU3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It takes 2 or 3 days to fully cure, so finding a dust-free environment is
important. After it cures, it's dried to a high gloss and smooth finish.
You won't need to sand it.
This is the best instructions I found for mixing it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70bOH2j2vvs Their directions seem a
little fastidious, but if you get an incomplete mix, the results will be a
mess. There are lots of videos about applying the epoxy, too.
Good luck!
- Tom
On Sun, Nov 4, 2018 at 12:06 AM Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what
> type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded
> it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have
> to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>
> Bruce
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 14:29:36 GMT
From: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stuff!!
I know I mentioned this before, but the time is near. Within the next few weeks
I will lay out in my garage all the Healey parts, etc. that I have after 50+
years. I will take pictures and post to the list. My goal is to have someone
arrive with a trailer and make an offer I can't refuse. Most, to all, will be
for the 100-4. A little bit of everything from a beautiful grille, auxiliary
instruments, NOS lights, lenses, and boxes of parts. The one item I would like
to sell separately, is a 100-4 BN2 instrument panel, restored by Rich Chrysler.
It is painted Healey Blue and ready to install. I will send pictures on
request. The time is nearing for our move to St. Louis to be near our grandson.
I appreciate your help, and so does my wife and grandson!! Thanks. Cheers, Doug
____________________________________________________________
See If You Can Guess Who This Former Child Star Is
funnyjk.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5bdf027c673dd2776e57st01duc
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 10:15:45 -0500
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
I found the only way to get the old stuff off was to get under it with a pallet
knife- it seemed to be impervious to any removers. I didn?t have to use any
stain- the burled veneer has quite a lot of colour of its own once the new
varnish goes on.
Steve Byers can tell you about a product he used called, something like
?Envirotek?.
I used many coats of spar varnish and sanded between coats.
Stephen, BJ8
> On Nov 4, 2018, at 1:40 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> I have done this on a TR6. The lacquer was probably epoxy as it did not
> respond to solvents, so I had to sand away the coat. Be very careful as the
> wood surface may be a very thin veneer easily damaged by sanding. use 400
> grade. I used many coats of boat lacquer to finish the dash to build up
> before sanding the top coat smooth, first with 600, followed by 2000 and a
> cutting compound to achieve a highly glossy finish.
>
> Not difficult but very tedious.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 4-11-2018 om 04:12 schreef Bruce Peters:
>> Hi all,
>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type
>> of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it
>> all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to
>> do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
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> _______________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 07:37:49 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-4 timing
re: "I'm wondering if I have been over thinking this process and the
stated advance is meant to be "at idle" with the vacuum connected..."
I've always disconnected the vacuum advance, at least for my BJ8 and (I
think) for my BN2.? I believe I read this in the shop manual, but don't
have it handy to check.? I've checked with and without the VA connected,
and didn't detect much, if any difference.? If you've set up HD8s 'per
the book,' you would be running on the slow run (bypass) circuit, and
the closed throttle would (I think, not sure) cover the VA port.
I'm not sure the vacuum vanishes at wide-open throttle* (WOT). There are
two types of vacuum: manifold and port; the type on SU carbs is, I
believe, the port type.? The depression (vacuum) is created, at least in
part, by venturi effect.? Hence, I don't think it goes away entirely,
even at WOT, but I'm not sure.
If you google 'manifold vs ported vacuum advance' you'll get a ton of
links; here's just one:
http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/vacuum/port_or_manifold.htm
So, the $64,000 question is whether the port in an SU carb is behind,
right on, or in front of a closed throttle plate (this article says the
purpose of port vacuum is to not advance at all at idle)?? First correct
answer wins the internet for today.
* I've always felt the term 'full throttle' to be a little, er,
confusing.? Since the purpose of the throttle, by definition of
'throttle,' is to restrain/limit airflow, wouldn't 'full throttle' be a
fully closed throttle?? The term may be evolved from 'fully open
throttle,' but got shortened (similar, perhaps, to how the aviation term
'on the backside of the power curve' probably gave us 'behind the curve.').
Bob
On 11/2/2018 7:05 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Thanks for your input on ignition timing Michael.
> I have always found the factory specs to be a little confusing.
> They state 6 degrees BTDC as the timing (which I presume to be
> "static") and then state that the distributor produces 16 - 18 degrees
> at 2000 RPM (distributor speed) which I figure to be 32 -36 degrees at
> 4000 engine RPM.
> I interpret that to produce 6 + 34 (2 x 17) degrees BTDC at 4000
> engine RPM for a total of 40 degrees which sounds like an awful lot.
> My engine does not sound at all happy with 40 degrees even with 110
> octane!!
> I'm wondering if I have been over thinking this process and the stated
> advance is meant to be "at idle" with the vacuum connected (not normal
> practice as far as I was taught) which would add 6 degrees of vacuum
> advance which would vanish at full throttle producing a net of 34
> degrees over 4000 at full throttle.
> I have been setting the timing to 32 degrees BTDC with the vacuum
> disconnected at 4000 RPM and the engine runs fey well and very cool,
> in fact too cool without a 180 degree thermostat.
> I am running 8.3:1 compressions with an M cam.
>
> M
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 9:16 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com
>
> Wayne--
>
> Exactly right--it is total advance that matters and I arrived at
> that number by gradually increasing advance and seeing the effect
> upon water temperature at speed and under full load.? Anything
> more and the car would begin to overheat. A bit too much less
> advance and performance fell off.
>
> BTW I am running a DW "fast street" cam and tubular header and a
> Mallory non-vacuum advance distributor fired with their Unilite
> module.? I too have a Smitty's five-speed and the Toyota box, 180
> XAS's and 3.54 diff set give me about 72-73 mph at 3K rpm's indicated
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:03 PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2@gmail.com
>
> Thanks to Michael and others I am going to stick with 34 - 35
> degrees total advance for now. What, I think this means, is
> that the advance at idle is secondary and not as important as
> total advance. Cruising with the the Toyota five speed or the
> original overdrive on the highway is right in the 3K RPM range
> so I think this the perfect RPM to limit total advance. I
> might make a run to my local airport and buy some 100LL fuel.
> I have worked in aviation since 1967 so I have a few friends?
>
>
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 10:48:24 -0500
From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: rv9aplane@gmail.com, Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
My Dash was pretty bad when I got it, the clear coat peeled off easily, much
with a fingernail, then I think I used some mild heat to help with the rest.
I cleaned it with a wood soap, Homer Formby's, then a very light sand, then I
simply polyurethaned it with Minwax. It turned out much darker than a stock
TR250 dash, but very beautiful, and it has held up well over time (9 years).
Greg Lemon
TR250
---- Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com> wrote:
> Bruce,
>
> I used a single-edged razor blade to carefully slip under a cracked edge
> and lift the old clear coat off. YMMV. After I removed the old clear coat,
> I lightly sanded it with a very fine grit. Other folks on this list have
> said the veneer is very thin, so don't overdo sanding.
>
> After sanding I wiped a mix of mahogany/walnut Minwax oil-based stain on
> the veneer. I added very little color to it. If you're going for a
> concours-quality car, staining may or may not be the best thing to do.
>
> I used Envirotex Lite for the new finish. Several folks on this list
> recommend it, and it worked very well. It's a heavy epoxy that self levels:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEMU3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> It takes 2 or 3 days to fully cure, so finding a dust-free environment is
> important. After it cures, it's dried to a high gloss and smooth finish.
> You won't need to sand it.
>
> This is the best instructions I found for mixing it:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70bOH2j2vvs Their directions seem a
> little fastidious, but if you get an incomplete mix, the results will be a
> mess. There are lots of videos about applying the epoxy, too.
>
> Good luck!
>
> - Tom
>
> On Sun, Nov 4, 2018 at 12:06 AM Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what
> > type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded
> > it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have
> > to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
> >
> >
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 09:55:09 -0800
From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
To: michaelsalter@gmail.com
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
Message-ID:
<CAEEMJ+3zV5oXyYPe6ecLhVRBHjwSMKxrs0Y+ygJVxvj8K=zOHw@mail.gmail.com>
The threads are great no problem.
One person mentioned using a fille to rough up the surfaces. This did
help. I used the roughest stone iin my Dremel kit. Now it doesn't break
my shinbone it just cuts the skin.
It's a shame Moss doesn't provide the parts for this. But then I guess
most people don't have the problem or they ignore the problem. For me it
is a big problem since I drive the car most every day..................
Al
On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 5:03 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Another source for left hand threads is turnbuckles but as I recall the
> left door uses a right hand thread.
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 7:48 PM goldengt <goldengt@cal.net wrote:
>
>> The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could
>> weld in a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller
>> nut. Get the left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.
>> Ken Freese
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
>> Date: 11/3/18 1:46 PM (GMT-08:00)
>> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
>>
>> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger
>> door is ok.
>> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
>> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
>> either. The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
>> smooth - like glass smooth.
>>
>> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
>> ................... Al
>>
>> --
>> Albert Seminatore
>> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>> eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
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>>
--
Albert Seminatore
Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
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