The one thing that noone?s mentioned so far is putting in a modern starter
motor. That won?t clean up the contacts in the wiring system, but it will
certainly make the best use of your amps.
Plainly not to everyone?s taste. Visually not obtrusive, but audibly a bit off.
Does create space for a bigger oil filter if you?ve got a conversion that comes
straight off the block?..
Simon
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: 16 May 2018 11:36
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps
I installed battery cutoff switch obtained from the local marine equipment
supply store. It is very heavy-duty, works nicely, and includes a removable red
"key" that helps ensure security. I also added a small toggle switch on the
battery cutoff mounting plate that grounds the distributor security wire.
No. It does not look original. However, it fits perfectly in the original's
place. It has very low voltage drop when cranking the starter motor.
Alex in Maine
1960 BT7
Bob.
Another item you didn't consider are the contacts in the battery disconnect
switch. I know with mine I have to sometimes fiddle around with it to make good
enough contact to run the starter well. Don't know if the current available
replacements are satisfactory.
Regards,
Gordy
Longbridge BN4, with left side door lock
On 2018-05-15 10:30, Bob Spidell wrote:
There's several variables to consider:
- Later 6-cyl cars have the battery in the boot. That's a long cable run to
the starter solenoid; the cables and terminals need to be in good nick.
- Ditto the starter. The field coils in starters build up resistance over time
and, eventually, the starter won't crank as well, putting even more load on the
battery. After a couple cranks, the field coils get warm and the resistance
builds up and, of course, the battery's reserve gets depleted.
- The higher the compression in your engine, the harder it is to turn over.
- Thicker oil, like 20W-50 can bog an engine down a bit.
The more CCA you have, the more margin to start an engine, esp. on a cold day
(that's why CCA is the nominal stat for batteries). My Healeys are harder to
start after they've been sitting for more than a few days. The 500CCA number I
gave was a SWAG; I haven't seen any full-size auto battery with less than that
anyway. We got a battery for my dad's '65 Mustang 289 with 550CCA from
Autozone; Costco didn't sell the size we needed. It cranks the V8 OK.
FWIW, when I rebuilt my BJ8's engine the (previously) satisfactory wet cell
battery I had wouldn't even turn the engine over (later compression checks
showed 180PSI +/- in all 6). I had the starter rebuilt and installed an 800CCA
AGM battery. The starter actually startled me the first time I cranked it;
it's nearly as fast as the geared starter in my Mustang.
TLDR; The more the better.
Bob
On 5/14/2018 10:12 PM, John Spaur wrote:
So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely)
My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post
about a minimum of 500.
How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine?
TIA
John Spaur
San Jose
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