An air leak on the intake side will cause the pump to cycle when the
engine isn't running--and there will be no fuel leak--but it doesn't
sound like this is the problem in this instance (it's usually
more-or-less random).
Bob
On 2/19/2018 6:16 PM, Larry Wendland wrote:
> Years ago I had the same problem with the fuel pump not "pumping up and
> stopping" with the engine off and the key on. I found one of the check valve
> membranes split and allowing fuel to leak by. Replaced the check valve and
> problem solved.
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Feb 19, 2018 3:48 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Strange Timing Setting
>
>
>
> I went through an early (BN2) pump for a different issue--erratic
> pumping--and noticed what appeared to be a small bypass port between the
> brass valves.? I surmised (guessed) that the passageway may be there to allow
> the pump to 'bleed down' when the engine isn't running.? Not sure why, but
> one reason could be that it could be detrimental to the diaphragm to be in
> the 'cocked and loaded' position for too long.? Can't say if the later pumps
> have something similar but, as Kees says, the flapper valves probably leak
> enough to prevent this.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
> On February 18, 2018 at 10:50 AM Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
>
>
> It should pump/click every 15s or more. There is always a slight seepage
> through the plastic valves. They are never 100% leak free. If you hear it
> pumping more often the chance is that the seat faces of the valves are dirty
> or corroded. This can usually be remedied by carefully removing the valve
> assemblies, prying out the plastic valves very prudently, clean them and
> clean the faces of the bodies. If very corroded the valve assemblies can be
> renewed. When fitting them back in the pump body use new rubber seals (flat
> rubber rings). If they are not available you can usually get away with
> fitting suitable O-rings.
> If the pump is out clean the contact points with a strip of 2000 flower
> paper.
> When the points are severely worn, dismantle and rebuild the pump and keep
> the 3-layer membrane if possible as the new single layer membranes are of a
> lesser quality. Be very careful not to damage the thin kevlar layer when
> removing the pump body, separate the layers and rub some talcum powder
> between the layers very sparingly to create a supple membrane assembly.
> If you follow the SU instruction to the letter the job of rebuilding is a
> piece of cake and should not take more than half an hour. Parts are available
> at the SU dealers. (Google)
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 18-2-2018 om 8:55 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>
>
> Greetings
>
> Well the cavalry arrived and the engine in the BN3 is now running for the
> first time in nearly seven years.
>
> If you recall that despite going by the book the rotor button looked to be
> 120 degrees out.
>
> The solution? Move the geared camshaft/distributor drive about four teeth,
> put it all back together, press the solenoid and away it went. Good oil
> pressure and lots of gunk out the exhaust and on to my friend?s E-type. Very
> pleased!
>
> Now the next question is why does a SU fuel pump keep pumping occasionally
> with the ignition on even when there are no leaks and the float bowl levels
> are correct.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
>
>
>
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