I am baffled by the criticism of Pertronix!
I have had a Pertronix for about 10 years in my BJ8. It has been flawless. In
addition, I know of at least 6 local club members who have used Pertronix with
out any issues for even longer.(Except when they inadvertently reverse the
polarity & fry them.) Two of us have also used Pertronix in our vintage race
cars with out any issues.
If you use the stock type distributor cap (I.E. side entry with pointed screws
inside to secure the individual plug wires) you need to use solid copper/steel
core wires. Regardless of whether you use a Pertronix or points.
Gary Hodson
-----Original Message-----
From: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr at cox.net>
To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; 'Healey List' <healeys at
autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Nov 3, 2017 3:40 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix question
Don?t do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones
are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are
cheap and easy to replace.
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question
Well, after experiencing what seems to be ?condenser misfiring? on my way back
from Russ Thompson?s shop, I?m thinking I may end my stubborn holdout and
convert to Pertronix. I?ve a few questions:
What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II?
Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II?
Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug wires, or do
you replace the cap as well?
Sources for caps and wires? I?m assuming the Pertronix cap in the Moss
catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not fit a DM6
distributor. Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder.
Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well?
The connection looks straight forward?red to coil (+), black to coil (?) while
retaining the white and white/black connections back into the harness.
Obviously the while/black from coil (?) to the distributor is removed.
Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A. Is this applicable to the DM6?
Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead post in what
appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured to a hole in the
housing with nuts. I?m assuming I have to remove the points plate to gain
access, correct?
Thanks in advance for the input.
Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7
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