Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it
didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;)
On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>
> The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative
> in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current
> flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That
> means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes
> which are polarity sensitive and will not function and
> will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity.
>
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> BN1 #554
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
> Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM
> *To:* Healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs
> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff
> indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.
> The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED
> 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos.
> ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone
> found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to
> increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while
> and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it
>
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