I used the ol' 2x4 braced against the pedal to get the nominal setting
(but I thought it required too much pedal and the OD didn't always
deactivate when I assumed it would).? I think it's a bit of personal
preference; I adjusted mine so just a quarter of a clutch pedal and a
quick blip--less than a downshift--would disengage the OD.? Done just
right, it's smoother than my best downshift, so I gotta believe it's OK
on the internals.? This OD has almost 200K miles and the only problems
(2) I've had with it were electrical.
Anyway, glad it's in the manual; I was beginning to wonder ...
On 9/4/2017 3:15 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote:
>
> The manual says:
>
> "Connect a low-consumption test lamp (a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel
> light bulb is suitable) [I made a test lamp out of a single filament
> turn signal bulb and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between
> the top terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle switch] and a
> convenient earthing point.
>
> ? The bulb should light when the overdrive and the ignition are both
> switched on, and the gear lever is set in the third or top gear position.
>
> ? When the overdrive is switched off, the bulb should remain alight
> with the throttle still closed.
>
> ? Progressively open the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal
> until the light goes out. Check the position of the throttle opening
> when this occurs:? it should be one-fifth open.? This position of the
> throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.) diameter rod can be
> just passed between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever on the
> HD type of carburetter, or when a feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.)
> thickness can be inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop
> on the H4 type of carburetter used on earlier engines."
>
> The manual procedure would account for any system slack, but it also
> requires two people:? one to operate the pedal and another to monitor
> the light and check the position of the throttle plates when it goes
> out. It would also require access to the throttle plates, and an
> estimate of what is "one fifth open".? If that is related to the 3/16"
> rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust until the light goes out?
>
> I have an "overdrive warning" light just above the dash switch that I
> installed back in the '80s when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in
> the dash.? When the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on
> when the dash switch is turned off and then goes off with what seems
> to me a reasonable movement of the pedal.? I would say it isn't
> necessary to account for slack in the system when using the 3/16" rod.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question
>
> I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I
> interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the
> throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened.?
> For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by pressing on the
> accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull
> up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism.? So, I set it
> this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the
> OD.? I just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged
> with what I felt was appropriate pedal.? Maybe the 3/16" should be
> measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone
> know for sure?
>
> Bob
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20170904/c9325e48/attachment.html>
|