Hi Dave,
I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K
miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and
lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're
really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is 'slightly
better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate for
a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. I don't think you'll
gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you at least use headers and
port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy heads--and then additional
tuning is required. Steve G.--on this list, I believe--is doing a build
with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of his engine is likely
tuned for the higher torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't want to go
much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually
running 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from
nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain.
DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their gun-drilled
cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in which case
you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, pistons, etc.).
Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all components--e.g.
rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. My builder was adamant
about that. You can use either 'standard' lifters with your current
pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their pushrods. I went with
standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier timing set from Australia;
my builder said the cam did require some adjustment.
DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of
course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you use,
please let us know your results.
Bob
On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM, drmasucci at comcast.net wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8
> engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a
> full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While
> all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were
> damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack
> of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do
> well, I am assuming that must be why.
>
> So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground,
> or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the
> wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for
> stock or mild tune only.
>
> I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to
> the process. I know that if I change something like the cam
> parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the
> valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components.
>
> I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand
> that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve
> clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters
> as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to
> select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to
> the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature?
>
> So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list.
> Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any
> opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my
> best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to
> hear that also.
>
> As usual, thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Dave
> 64 BJ8
> 72 XJ6
> 72 Bonneville
>
>
>
>
>
>
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