You can loosen the nut with an open end wrench and engine torque. Once
loosened, you can then proceed disconnecting everything and lifting the engine.
John
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 10:00 AM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket
So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the nut
will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it?
- Tom
Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the
throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the
bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load
considerably.
It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the crankshaft
before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me
that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the crankcase; you'll want
to use some sort of thread sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat
you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket.
The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been
torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and
whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember. I used a 3/4"
impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up mangling
the nut pretty bad.
Bob
On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:
I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone
please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high
enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks.
Regards,
Charlie
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
Lachlan
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener
Hi,
I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I
don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net.
I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future
when I might get round to actually doing it.
So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted
me to dig out the article/notes.
First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near
the fuel tank.
Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to
wonder if I?d understood it correctly.
Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the
gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I
can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire
from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those
fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the
capacitor?
Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot
bypass it?
Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding
it. Maybe I think too much.
Simon
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