Hi Tom,
Even if a car has never seen salt on the roads, they are still at a
disadvantage when from a wet climate. These cars were not anti-rust
treated at all and could rust when severe condensation takes place. I am
not saying that all cars from non-dry states are bad, but one should
take great care when buying such a car.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 27-10-2016 om 15:12 schreef Tom Felts:
> Dag Kees-------quick comment on your comment on "wet" climates---while on the
> surface, you are correct, don't think I'd apply that to ALL wet-climate cars.
> I live in a wet climate (Western Pa), but the Healey I have owned for almost
> 37 years has never seen ice/snow/salt. I'd hate to lost a potential buyer
> simply because the car is located in a wet climate area.
>
> Look first.
>
> tom
> ---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> =============
> If you check out the car take a magnet with you. If the wings are
> bubbling at the lower edge it is very likely that the sills have rotted
> out on top. Ideally one should remove the splash plates that are fitted
> behind the frond wheels and in front of the rear wheels. Often these
> areas are often "restored" with filler, so check with a magnet. Also
> check the rear deck at both sides with a magnet. This is an area with
> double plating and is also often repaired with filler. Other areas to
> watch are the front and rear of the bonnet and of course the famous kink
> in the bonnet where the stay attaches, which is very difficult to put
> right. Bonnets are not available any more so very expensive second hand.
> There are some fibreglass bonnets around. Check out the lower A-posts
> and the lower edges of the doors.
> Avoid the MkI and go for the MkII (post late 1973) with the ribbed oil
> pan and rounded headlamp nacelles. The MkII had most initial issues
> solved and is much better finished although all things are relative.
> Being a NY car I would be very cautious. Better go for a dry state
> California/New Mexico/Nevada etc. car. The body is the most expensive
> part to put right so it is important to get a rust free car. Be aware
> that these cars do not sell for big money. $10.000 should get you a near
> concours car.
> If you have the chassis number and engine number (on rear motor flange
> over the starter motor) I can check the car out and see if it has the
> original engine.
> Parts availability is quite good apart from the bonnet. Most mechanical
> problems can be easily solved. However check play in the steering as the
> lower steering column/shaft is often history and replacements are
> difficult to source. Play in the upper steering column usually means an
> easy rebuild and adjustment by peening over the upper ball bearing as
> this often works loose.
> Remember that brakes, traverse, suspension and steering are taken from
> the Vauxhall Viva/Firenza/Magnum HC 1800+. Cheap as chips in the UK.
> There are several breakers yards in the US specialising in JH. Also look
> at the JHPS.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> 2x JH MkII '74
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Op 27-10-2016 om 4:42 schreef i erbs:
>> Howdy all,
>> I'm looking into a 73 Jensen Healey located in Southampton NY. Any
>> lister near enough to go check it out for me?
>> Owner said PO replaced floors, but there is some signs of rust in the
>> wheel wells. What else should I be concerned about? Said PO rebuilt
>> engine/trans and car has around 65K on it. Needs interior bits (any
>> ideas on sources) and might need repainting or at min have paint
>> cleaned up. asking $3300/ I can forward photos if anyone whats to
>> chime in with observations.
>> Thanks
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland,OR
>> _______ _______
>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>> (_________________________)
>> BT7 engine and disk brakes
>> *Aerodynamics are for people who canâ??t build engines.* â?? /Enzo Ferrari/
>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>>
>>
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