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I recently installed a 123 Tune distributor on my BJ8, replacing a =
Pertronix =E2=80=93 mainly for ease of adjustments, repeatability, and =
to eliminate the mechanical weights springs and vacuum advance; and not =
be constrained by the mechanical limits of the Lucas/Pertronix; a crank =
fired system was appealing but too much hassle to fit the toothed wheel =
!
Works OK - now after realising you have to be ultra diligent about =
taking up the rotor drive freeplay before closing the cap.
Timing curves are set via a USB connection to a PC.
Checked with a timing light and the advance you set is what you get at =
the crank.
Hoping some other listers have installed a 123 Tune and would share the =
settings/curves that have worked best for them on AH 3000 engines and =
not being constrained by mechanical advance. Also vacuum settings that =
have worked.
My manual gives 10 deg. static advance and 15 deg strobe at 600 RPM then =
34-38 deg at 6400 RPM.
I used max of 35 deg at 6400 RPM
When I use these settings the timing was too retarded.
Checked with a vacuum gauge that was very jittery at 700 RPM and way =
down at about 7-10 ins
To get a sensible vacuum reading (18ins) have to use around 22 deg at =
600 RPM.=20
Did some road testing =E2=80=93 the 123 software has a nice RPM =
stopwatch feature.
Around 22 deg seems to give best results. Went from 1200 RPM to 2800 RPM =
in 4th and 3rd gears. Interesting - reducing advance to 17 deg made a =
big difference =E2=80=93 lot worse. Use 94 octane Chevron and no =
pinging. Believe it is a standard cam. Only mod I have is a Maniflow =
exhaust header. Compression is OK at 155 psi ave.
So why are these advance setting so different to what the manual gives =
for the Lucas 25D ?
(I find some of the manual advance data to be confusing particularly the =
decelerating and vacuum settings)=20
Unfortunately didn=E2=80=99t take a note of the settings I used before I =
made the distributor change as had just set it =E2=80=9Cby ear=E2=80=9D.
Also wonder if anyone has tried manifold vacuum for advance instead of =
the ported take off ? With the flexibility of the 123 it sort of makes =
sense to deviate from the standard settings.
rg=20
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<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'; COLOR: =
#000000">
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">I recently installed a 123 Tune =
distributor=20
on my BJ8, replacing a Pertronix =E2=80=93 mainly for ease of =
adjustments,=20
repeatability, and to eliminate the mechanical weights springs and =
vacuum=20
advance; and not be constrained by the mechanical limits of the =
Lucas/Pertronix;=20
a crank fired system was appealing but too much hassle to fit the =
toothed wheel=20
!</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Works OK - now after realising you =
have to be=20
ultra diligent about taking up the rotor drive freeplay before closing =
the=20
cap.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Timing curves are set via a USB =
connection to=20
a PC.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Checked with a timing light and the =
advance=20
you set is what you get at the crank.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Hoping some other listers have =
installed a=20
123 Tune and would share the settings/curves that have worked best for =
them on=20
AH 3000 engines and not being constrained by mechanical advance. Also =
vacuum=20
settings that have worked.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">My manual gives 10 deg. static =
advance and 15=20
deg strobe at 600 RPM then 34-38 deg at 6400 RPM.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">I used max of 35 deg at 6400 =
RPM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">When I use these settings the =
timing was too=20
retarded.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Checked with a vacuum gauge that =
was very=20
jittery at 700 RPM and way down at about 7-10 ins</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">To get a sensible vacuum reading =
(18ins) have=20
to use around 22 deg at 600 RPM. </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Did some road testing =E2=80=93 the =
123 software has=20
a nice RPM stopwatch feature.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Around 22 deg seems to give best =
results.=20
Went from 1200 RPM to 2800 RPM in 4th and 3rd gears. Interesting - =
reducing=20
advance to 17 deg made a big difference =E2=80=93 lot worse. Use 94 =
octane Chevron and=20
no pinging. Believe it is a standard cam. Only mod I have is a =
Maniflow=20
exhaust header. Compression is OK at 155 psi ave.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">So why are these advance setting so =
different=20
to what the manual gives for the Lucas 25D ?</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">(I find some of the manual advance =
data to be=20
confusing particularly the decelerating and vacuum settings) </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Unfortunately didn=E2=80=99t take a =
note of the=20
settings I used before I made the distributor change as had just set it =
=E2=80=9Cby=20
ear=E2=80=9D.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">Also wonder if anyone has tried =
manifold=20
vacuum for advance instead of the ported take off ? With the flexibility =
of the=20
123 it sort of makes sense to deviate from the standard settings.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">rg </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word"> </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"WORD-WRAP: =
break-word"> </DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><=
/DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></=
DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></D=
IV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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