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Beaten to death is an understatement.
There is a load of garbage still floating around the nothing-ever-goes-away
internet.
The point is simple -- Rebuild engines desperately need ZDDP in the rebuild
grease and a good non-synthetic oil during the break-in period because it helps
microfill the porous areas while the oil carries away the metallic junk that
gets ground off as the microscopically high parts of the surfaces are worn
down. Without those, the rubbing surfaces microweld with each other and then
rip off and then microweld and rip off, ruining the cam shaft surfaces.
BUT -- all of this happens essentially during the first five minutes of the
first firing of the engine.
So, it's all very simple -- put on the ZDDP-rich break-in grease on the cam
shaft surfaces and tappet rubbing surfaces. Use a very high quality break-in
oil. Stop the engine after 10-20 minutes of running and change out the oil. Run
the engine again with another fresh dose of break-in oil for the first hundred
or so miles of gentle break-in driving. Incidentally, doing all this on a dyno,
perhaps even before the engine is installed in the car, is the very best
possible idea. Then change the oil again to a high-quality dinosaur oil or
synthetic oil and drive for the first coupld thousand miles, or first weekend
if it's a race car, and change again then go to the standard 5,000 miles on
regular oil or 10,000 miles on synthetic oil, or every year, whichever comes
first.
Repeat after me -- extra ZDDP is essential at break-in and then after that
doesn't matter all.
G.
Gary Anderson
Author, Restoration Guide to Austin Healeys
Car magazine editor for 20 years.
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-request <healeys-request@autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 27, 2016 12:52 pm
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 9, Issue 175
Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
healeys@autox.team.net
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
healeys-owner@autox.team.net
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Lifter and Cam Wear ZDDP Issue (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Michael,
As you are probably aware this subject was beaten to death on the British
Car Forum. The conclusion I came to at the time was that thinner, fully
synthetic oil was the best way to go. However there was still some
ambiguity regarding whether to look for a fully synthetic that had the 1200
ZDDP or whether to ignore that.
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<font color='black' size='2' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>
<div> <font size="2">Beaten to death is an understatement. <br>
<br>
There is a load of garbage still floating around the nothing-ever-goes-away
internet.<br>
<br>
The point is simple -- Rebuild engines desperately need ZDDP in the rebuild
grease and a good non-synthetic oil during the break-in period because it helps
microfill the porous areas while the oil carries away the metallic junk that
gets ground off as the microscopically high parts of the surfaces are worn
down. Without those, the rubbing surfaces microweld with each other and then
rip off and then microweld and rip off, ruining the cam shaft surfaces.<br>
<br>
BUT -- all of this happens essentially during the first five minutes of the
first firing of the engine. <br>
<br>
So, it's all very simple -- put on the ZDDP-rich break-in grease on the cam
shaft surfaces and tappet rubbing surfaces. Use a very high quality break-in
oil. Stop the engine after 10-20 minutes of running and change out the oil. Run
the engine again with another fresh dose of break-in oil for the first hundred
or so miles of gentle break-in driving. Incidentally, doing all this on a dyno,
perhaps even before the engine is installed in the car, is the very best
possible idea. Then change the oil again to a high-quality dinosaur oil or
synthetic oil and drive for the first coupld thousand miles, or first
weekend if it's a race car, and change again then go to the standard 5,000
miles on regular oil or 10,000 miles on synthetic oil, or every year, whichever
comes first. <br>
<br>
Repeat after me -- extra ZDDP is essential at break-in and then after that
doesn't matter all.<br>
<br>
G.<br>
</font>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style="clear:both"><font face="Times New Roman, Times, serif"><i>Gary
Anderson</i><br>
<font size="2">Author, Restoration Guide to Austin Healeys<br>
Car magazine editor for 20 years.<br>
</font></font></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div
style="font-family:helvetica,arial;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: healeys-request <healeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, Jun 27, 2016 12:52 pm<br>
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 9, Issue 175<br>
<br>
Send Healeys mailing list submissions to<br>
<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<br>
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>
<a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";
target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to<br>
healeys-<a
href="mailto:request@autox.team.net";>request@autox.team.net</a><br>
<br>
You can reach the person managing the list at<br>
healeys-<a
href="mailto:owner@autox.team.net";>owner@autox.team.net</a><br>
<br>
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."<br>
<br>
<br>
Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Re: Lifter and Cam Wear ZDDP Issue (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)<br>
<br>
<br>
Michael,<br>
<br>
As you are probably aware this subject was beaten to death on the British<br>
Car Forum. The conclusion I came to at the time was that thinner, fully<br>
synthetic oil was the best way to go. However there was still some<br>
ambiguity regarding whether to look for a fully synthetic that had the 1200<br>
ZDDP or whether to ignore that. <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
</font>
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