I've also had luck just running the nut down snug, maybe adding a little
light oil, and then backing off a tad, retightening a tad plus, and
repeat. This gets rid of the little pieces of metal without gouging the
remainder. Patience.
Mike
On 3/16/2016 5:30 PM, J. Armour wrote:
> When I was a young trainee engineer an old bloke showed me that to
> clean-up a damaged thread by hand screw on a nut until it would not
> continue and then tap all sides of the hexagon sides of the nut while
> applying torque to turn the nut. Slowly continuing this will reshape
> damaged thread without removing metal which is what the cutting process of
> the die nut will do. The amount of metal in a thread form is easily
> reworked if the nut will start on a previously well formed thread..
> Biggest risk is black and bruised fingers!
> This is a crude form of roll forming a thread and we all know rolled
> threads are much stronger and better than cut threads.
> Joe
>
> On 17/03/16 10:36 AM, "Healeys on behalf of Per Schoerner"
> <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net on behalf of per@schoerner.se> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>> Use a thread file, could also be called a thread restorer, instead. If
>> you run a die or a nut over them you risk to damage the threads even more.
>>
>> Per
>>
>> Den 2016-03-16 kl. 20:26, skrev John Vrugtman:
>>> I had a similar problem with mine, Bruce Philips told me to buy two nuts
>>> and use one to clean up the threads, worked great.
>>>
>>> John
>>> 64/66 BJ8s
>>>
>>> On 3/16/2016 2:54 PM, rrengineer.mike wrote:
>>>> Does anyone know the thread size for the steering wheel nut. The
>>>> threads on the shaft of my BN2 column are a little buggered up and I
>>>> would like to run a die over them. The nut just engages the shafts
>>>> less than a full turn now.
>>>> Mike MacLean
>> __________________________
>
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