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re: "... how do you get the correct instruction with the harness? "
I've rewired two Healeys; a BJ8 in situ and a BN2 on a bare chassis. For the
BJ8, I went lead-by-lead; i.e. replace the old with the new as you go along
(don't yank the old one then try to replace). For the BN2 I just followed the
schematic in the shop manual. If you don't have the Bentley shop manual for
your BN6, now's the time to get it; the schematic is accurate though I've seen
inaccurate harnesses (one wire with wrong color/tracer). The only P-clips you
can't R&R are in the transmission tunnel; I just tie-wrapped the new harness to
the old P-clip until I pulled the engine.
If you're rewiring existing, start by cutting the old harness where it enters
the cockpit. Feed the new harness--it should have a large grommet
installed--through the firewall. You can connect the gauges and switches at
this point, or leave them for when you feel like working on your back in a yoga
position. Work from the firewall out to the corners, either by cutting and
replacing as you go, or following the schematic. Same for working with a bare
chassis though, of course, you won't have the old harness for guidance (note
that if the old harness has been replaced or 'repaired' before it might not be
exactly correct).
It's a good idea to replace the connectors, as they can corrode and spawn
electrical gremlins. Fill the connectors with dielectric grease before you
insert the new leads to help prevent corrosion.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
Sounds good. What if you started with a bare shell of a car?
On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 5:25 PM, Charlie <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:
Gerry,
When you remove the old harness, mark each wire as to what it connects to. Lay
it out on the floor along with the new one and mark the new one, then connect
each wire to what it is marked to connect to. If some don't match up, use the
Lucas color coding chart to figure out where they go. It should work out that
where they connect will be physically somewhere close to where the wire is, and
you should have a corresponding wire on the old harness in the same spot, but
maybe a different color.
Charlie
I am working on a BN6. One of the projects will to replace the wire harness. I
am presently doing the same with a MGTC. One of the reference books has a chart
with one set of color code and the the one that came with the new harness has
another. Neither one is the correct chart. I want to avoid this with the AH,
has anyone had this problem and if so how do you get the correct instruction
with the harness?
Thanks
Gerry
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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>re: "... <span>how do you get the correct instruction with the har=
ness?</span>"<br></div><div><br></div><div>I've rewired two Healeys; a BJ8 =
in situ and a BN2 on a bare chassis. For the BJ8, I went lead-by-lead=
; i.e. replace the old with the new as you go along (don't yank the old one=
then try to replace). For the BN2 I just followed the schematic in t=
he shop manual. If you don't have the Bentley shop manual for your BN=
6, now's the time to get it; the schematic is accurate though I've seen ina=
ccurate harnesses (one wire with wrong color/tracer). The only P-clip=
s you can't R&R are in the transmission tunnel; I just tie-wrapped the =
new harness to the old P-clip until I pulled the engine.<br></div><div><br>=
</div><div>If you're rewiring existing, start by cutting the old harness wh=
ere it enters the cockpit. Feed the new harness--it should have a lar=
ge grommet installed--through the firewall. You can connect the gauge=
s and switches at this point, or leave them for when you feel like working =
on your back in a yoga position. Work from the firewall out to the co=
rners, either by cutting and replacing as you go, or following the schemati=
c. Same for working with a bare chassis though, of course, you won't =
have the old harness for guidance (note that if the old harness has been re=
placed or 'repaired' before it might not be exactly correct).<br></div><div=
><br></div><div>It's a good idea to replace the connectors, as they can cor=
rode and spawn electrical gremlins. Fill the connectors with dielectr=
ic grease before you insert the new leads to help prevent corrosion.<br></d=
iv><div><br></div><div>Bob<br></div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div st=
yle=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none=
;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br><div><br></div=
><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:times new rom=
an, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px">Sounds good. What if you s=
tarted with a bare shell of a car?<br><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1456275346966=
_70662"><br></div><div class=3D"qtdSeparateBR"><br><div><br></div></div><di=
v style=3D"display: block;" class=3D"yahoo_quoted"><div style=3D"font-famil=
y: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><div style=3D=
"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grand=
e, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-famil=
y: Arial; font-size: small;"> On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 5:25 PM, Charli=
e <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:<br></span></div><blockquote style=3D=
"border-left: 2px solid rgb(16, 16, 255); margin-left: 5px; margin-top: 5px=
; padding-left: 5px;"><br><div><br></div><div class=3D"y_msg_container"><di=
v id=3D"yiv7200146535"><div><div style=3D"font-family:Arial;font-size:12pt;=
color:#000000;"><div>Gerry,<br clear=3D"none"></div><div><br clear=3D"none"=
></div><div>When you remove the old harness, mark each wire as to what it c=
onnects to. Lay it out on the floor along with the new one and mark t=
he new one, then connect each wire to what it is marked to connect to. =
; If some don't match up, use the Lucas color coding chart to figure out wh=
ere they go. It should work out that where they connect will be physi=
cally somewhere close to where the wire is, and you should have a correspon=
ding wire on the old harness in the same spot, but maybe a different color.=
<br clear=3D"none"></div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>Charlie<br clea=
r=3D"none"></div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><hr id=3D"yiv7200146535zwchr=
"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decora=
tion:none;font-family:Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br cle=
ar=3D"none"><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><span style=3D"color:black;font-f=
amily:arial;font-size:small;"> </span><div class=3D"yiv7200146535yqt5402328=
531" id=3D"yiv7200146535yqt10647"><div style=3D"font-family:arial, helvetic=
a;font-size:10pt;color:black;"><span style=3D"font-size:small;">I am workin=
g on a BN6. One of the </span><span style=3D"font-size:small;">projec=
ts will to replace the wire harness. I am presently doing the same wi=
th a MGTC. One of the reference books has a chart with one set of co=
lor code and the the one that came with the new harness </span><span>has an=
other. Neither one is the correct chart. I want to avoid this with th=
e AH, has anyone had this problem and if so how do you get the correct inst=
ruction with the harness?<br clear=3D"none"> Thanks<br clear=3D"none"> Gerr=
y<br clear=3D"none"> </span><span style=3D"font-size:small;"></span><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:small;"></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>=
</blockquote></div></div></div></div></div><div><br></div></div></body></ht=
ml>
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