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Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check out boiled linseed
oil.
On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
wrote:
> I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there. Thank=
s
> for the input.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Chris Scholz OD
>
> On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker <douglas.barker@videotron.ca>
> wrote:
>
> HELLO
>
> I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good timing:
>
> My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter wood
>
> Please define =E2=80=93White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?
>
> Also PU solvent based PU?
>
> Thanks-everything else I agree with
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Oudesluys
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
>
>
>
> Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated. I
> would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on =
a
> rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
> Look for remnants of lacquer on the inside of the aluminium. It may have
> been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find
> anything.
>
>
> Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint.
> If that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.
> Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white
> spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is
> even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium
> material as possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft
> round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood
> floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will
> flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightl=
y
> with 400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using=
a
> satin finish, but others prefer gloss.
> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil
> and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.
> Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be
> used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
> It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered
> Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).
>
> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also
> using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be th=
at
> in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:
>
> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the loo=
ks of my wooden steering wheel? The wood is in very good shape. I would li=
ke to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the meta=
l rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used? Are =
these maple? I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were =
black plastic.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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> -----
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>
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>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12/=
31/15
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--089e013a22faebbfed05283c9f09
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check ou=
t boiled linseed oil.=C2=A0 <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz <span di=
r=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:drscholz@visioncenterpc.com"; target=3D"_bla=
nk">drscholz@visioncenterpc.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padd=
ing-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there=
. Thanks for the input.=C2=A0<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone
<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker <<a href=3D"mailto:douglas.bark=
er@videotron.ca" target=3D"_blank">douglas.barker@videotron.ca</a>> wrot=
e:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">HELLO<u></u><u></u></span=
></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">I was just thinking of do=
ing mine also so this is good timing:<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">My wheel is I believe aMo=
tta but much lighter wood<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Please define =E2=80=93Wh=
ite spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Also PU solvent based PU?=
<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Thanks-everything else I =
agree with<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></spa=
n></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"=
;Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext">From:</span></b><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif=
";color:windowtext"> Healeys [<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">heal=
eys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel<u></u><u></u></span><=
/p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very =
nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it wi=
th white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in=
some linseed oil.<br>
Look for remnants of lacquer=C2=A0 on the inside of the aluminium. It may h=
ave been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find=
anything.<br>
<br>
<br>
Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. If=
that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.<br>
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white spi=
rits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is even =
and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material as =
possible. Remove all the dust carefully.
Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as u=
sed on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C =
so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few da=
ys and sand lightly with 400 grade
in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish,=
but others prefer gloss.<br>
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil and=
leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be used=
as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.<br>
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-Lita=
wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
<br>
I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also us=
ing raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that i=
n the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
=C2=A0<br>
Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the =
looks of my wooden steering wheel?=C2=A0 The wood is in very good shape. I =
would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since =
the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they use=
d?=C2=A0 Are these maple?=C2=A0 I know they are not original. I see the ori=
ginal wheels were black plastic. <u></u><u></u></pre>
<pre><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></pre>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
<u></u><u></u></p>
<pre>_______________________________________________<u></u><u></u></pre>
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<pre><a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">Healeys@au=
tox.team.net</a><u></u><u></u></pre>
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<pre><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></pre>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
<u></u><u></u></p>
<pre>-----<u></u><u></u></pre>
<pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<u></u><u></u></pre>
<pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a href=3D"http://www.avg.com"; target=3D"_bla=
nk">www.avg.com</a><u></u><u></u></pre>
<pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: =
12/31/15<u></u><u></u></pre>
</blockquote>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
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