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Hey Gary, some of those sentiments are a bit radical!!!
I have been riding on Lucas power for 49plus years and Joseph usually got me
home. Biggest issue was not the components but the quality and age of the
wiring insulation. I still remember the big fat collection of exposed copper
wires exiting the cockpit through the firewall grommet. Back in 1967 I
replaced wires basically one at a time with modern insulated wires to match
the colour code as best possible. The bullet end fittings and soldering
were the hard bit. I was alerted to this problem when the wipers, lights and
horn all worked at the same time.
Another memory of the robust nature of Joseph and his many parts was I left
the cover off the battery in the BN.4 and had the trunk well loaded.
Cresting a hill on the NO.1 national hwy it all went black in the middle of
the night when at speed. Thinking quick I knew that the safety device was
the ON/OFF switch in the trunk. I isolated the battery and saw the offending
metal rod direct shorting out the battery, simple ,grab it and remove the
problem. The burn marks took weeks to disappear but as soon as I turn the
ON/OFF switch back on all Joseph's parts worked as per normal.
The biggest mod the 'Works" cars had was two circuits, ie left and right
hand side to lighting as accident damage was the most likely cause of blown
fuses from shorting out
Joe
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of
<warthodson@aol.com>
Date: Friday, 18 December 2015 12:45 PM
To: <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: New Classic Technologies Fuse Box
Yes, I agree. But that is how I feel about adding all these silly components
to a well maintained system. If the system is not in good condition then
adding fuses & relays & extra circuits to protect against various forms of
electrical failures is not a good approach. It would be better to spend the
time & money on restoring/repairing the original system. I will admit that
my primary objection is that about 80% of the "improved" wiring systems I
have seen were poorly executed, used poor or no wire color coding and left
many of the underlying problems uncorrected.
Gary
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<html><head></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: s=
pace; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size:=
14px; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; "><div>Hey Gary, some of thos=
e sentiments are a bit radical!!!</div><div><br></div><div>I have been ridin=
g on Lucas power for 49plus years and Joseph usually got me home. Biggest is=
sue was not the components but the quality and age of the wiring insulation.=
I still remember the big fat collection of exposed copper wires exiting the=
cockpit through the firewall grommet. Back in 1967 I replaced wires basical=
ly one at a time with modern insulated wires to match the colour code =
as best possible. The bullet end fittings and soldering were the hard bit. I=
was alerted to this problem when the wipers, lights and horn all worked at =
the same time.</div><div><br></div><div>Another memory of the robust nature =
of Joseph and his many parts was I left the cover off the battery in the BN.=
4 and had the trunk well loaded. Cresting a hill on the NO.1 national hwy it=
all went black in the middle of the night when at speed. Thinking quick I k=
new that the safety device was the ON/OFF switch in the trunk. I isolated th=
e battery and saw the offending metal rod direct shorting out the battery, s=
imple ,grab it and remove the problem. The burn marks took weeks to disappea=
r but as soon as I turn the ON/OFF switch back on all Joseph's parts worked =
as per normal.</div><div><br></div><div>The biggest mod the 'Works" cars had=
was two circuits, ie left and right hand side to lighting as accident damag=
e was the most likely cause of blown fuses from shorting out</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Joe</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><span id=3D"OLK_SRC_BODY_SECT=
ION"><div style=3D"font-family:Calibri; font-size:11pt; text-align:left; color=
:black; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM=
: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid;=
BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt"><span style=3D"font-weight:bold"=
>From: </span> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>h=
ealeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of <<a href=3D"mailto:warth=
odson@aol.com">warthodson@aol.com</a>><br><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">=
Date: </span> Friday, 18 December 2015 12:45 PM<br><span style=3D"font-weight:=
bold">To: </span> <<a href=3D"mailto:e-wilkins@cox.net";>e-wilkins@cox.net</=
a>><br><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Cc: </span> <<a
href=3D"mailto:hea=
leys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><span style=3D"font-wei=
ght:bold">Subject: </span> Re: [Healeys] Fwd: New Classic Technologies Fuse=
Box<br></div><div><br></div><font color=3D"black" size=3D"2"
face=3D"arial"><div>=
Yes, I agree. But that is how I feel about adding all these silly components=
to a well maintained system. If the system is not in good condition th=
en adding fuses & relays & extra circuits to protect against&nb=
sp;various forms of electrical failures is not a good approach. It would be =
better to spend the time & money on restoring/repairing the original sys=
tem. I will admit that my primary objection is that about 80% of the "improv=
ed" wiring systems I have seen were poorly executed, used poor or no wire co=
lor coding and left many of the underlying problems uncorrected. <=
/div><div>Gary </div><div> </div><div> </div></font></span></=
body></html>
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