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Hi Philip,
My guess is that the hand brake cable is not moving freely in its sleeve (o=
uter) and is bending up near where it connects to the hand brake lever.
I would recommend, with the handle fully up, pulling hard, really hard, on =
the end of the cable as an assistant lowers the handle may straighten the b=
ent cable.
Another possibility is that the pivot on the hand brake levers inside the r=
ear brakes is seized....perhaps check that first.
Also, as the wheel cylinder is parallel to the hand brake lever mechanism h=
aving someone push on the brake pedal can help.
Michael S
BN1 #174
-----Original Message-----
From: "philip fish" <philipfish@waitrose.com>
Sent: =E2=80=8E4/=E2=80=8E11/=E2=80=8E2015 12:23 p.m.
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Help adjusting the handbrake on my Austin Healey 3000 BT=
7
Hi all,
I had a frustrating couple of hours trying to adjust the handbrake on my BT=
7 at the weekend. At the moment the handbrake pulls up to near the top of t=
he ratchets before engaging. As the rear disk brakes seem properly adjusted=
I tried to take up the slack at the fork located at the rear of the handbr=
ake cable, above the rear axle. A straightforward job I thought following N=
orman Nock's "handbrake" notes (downloaded from the web via British Car Spe=
cialists), but not for me.=20
With the handbrake fully-off removing the clevis pin from the fork was fine=
. I then turned the fork in several turns inwards and tried to reconnect th=
e clevis pin but could not line up the hole in the fork with the hole in th=
e balance lever. I could not do this on my own as there was too much tensio=
n in the link rods. Got my son to help, but still couldn't get the clevis i=
n. I then removed the return springs thinking this would make it easier, bu=
t I still could get the holes to line. Only by adjusting the fork back outw=
ards beyond the starting position could I get the pin back in. The result b=
eing that I now have more travel on the hand brake than when I started.
Is there a better method that I am using?
All so what is the best method to try a re-fit the springs? I tried using n=
eedle-nose pliers to stretch the spring but it took forever to get the hook=
end of the spring back in to the little hole on the link rod.
Thanks
Phil =
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, =
sans-serif; font-size: 16px; -ms-word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: =
space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;"><div><div style=3D"font-fami=
ly: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Hi Philip,<br>My guess is that th=
e hand brake cable is not moving freely in its sleeve (outer) and is bendin=
g up near where it connects to the hand brake lever.<br>I would recommend, =
with the handle fully up, pulling hard, really hard, on the end of the cabl=
e as an assistant lowers the handle may straighten the bent cable.<br>Anoth=
er possibility is that the pivot on the hand brake levers inside the rear b=
rakes is seized....perhaps check that first.<br>Also, as the wheel cylinder=
is parallel to the hand brake lever mechanism having someone push on the b=
rake pedal can help.<br>Michael S<br>BN1 #174</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><=
hr><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-we=
ight: bold;">From: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; f=
ont-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:philipfish@waitrose.com">philip fish</a>=
</span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;=
font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-=
serif; font-size: 11pt;">=E2=80=8E4/=E2=80=8E11/=E2=80=8E2015 12:23 p.m.</s=
pan><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; fo=
nt-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif=
; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox=
.team.net</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style=3D"font-famil=
y: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">[Healeys] Help adjusting the handb=
rake on my Austin Healey 3000 BT7</span><br><br></div><div>Hi all,<br>=0A=
I had a frustrating couple of hours trying to adjust the handbrake on my=0A=
BT7 at the weekend. At the moment the handbrake pulls up to near the =0A=
top of the ratchets before engaging. As the rear disk brakes seem =0A=
properly adjusted I tried to take up the slack at the fork located at =0A=
the rear of the handbrake cable, above the rear axle. A straightforward =0A=
job I thought following Norman Nock's "handbrake" notes (downloaded from=0A=
the web via British Car Specialists), but not for me. <br>=0A=
<br>=0A=
With the handbrake fully-off removing the clevis pin from the fork was =0A=
fine. I then turned the fork in several turns inwards and tried to =0A=
reconnect the clevis pin but could not line up the hole in the fork with=0A=
the hole in the balance lever. I could not do this on my own as there =0A=
was too much tension in the link rods. Got my son to help, but still =0A=
couldn't get the clevis in. I then removed the return springs thinking =0A=
this would make it easier, but I still could get the holes to line. Only=0A=
by adjusting the fork back outwards beyond the starting position could I=
=0A=
get the pin back in. The result being that I now have more travel on =0A=
the hand brake than when I started.<br>=0A=
<br>=0A=
Is there a better method that I am using?<br>=0A=
All so what is the best method to try a re-fit the springs? I tried =0A=
using needle-nose pliers to stretch the spring but it took forever to =0A=
get the hook end of the spring back in to the little hole on the link =0A=
rod.<br>=0A=
<br>=0A=
Thanks<br>=0A=
Phil </div>=0A=
</body></html>=
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