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Hi Roger,
I have encountered that problem myself with new wheels and splines. so you
are not alone. What was most confusing was that after tightening fully and
removing the KO nut the wheel pulled off the spline easily so my theory
about slight interference on the spline did not hold water.
Never really found a cause and it went away after the wheels were run on
the road for a while after which the KO nut would spin on by hand and
require about 1/2 a turn of tightening
Please let me know if you figure out the cause..
BTW good video about making wire wheels here.
http://cara.co.id/2015/06/how-to-make-wire-wheels/
Michael S
BN1 #174
On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net> wrote:
> I have just installed new MWS 5.5in 72 spoke wheels and new Moss (USA
> made) splined hubs on the rear of my BJ8. Also fitted new turret lug nuts.
> I am not happy with the fitment as have to hammer the hell out of the
> spinner to take up the peripheral play in the wheels.
> What gives ? Spoken to both MWS and Moss and they are at a loss.
> I can confirm that the hub mounting studs are not touching the inside of
> the wheel and that the spinners are not bottoming.
> Switched front to back spinners and no change.
> Spinner thread ID seems to be within spec. at 2.194 in
> Now thinking about new spinners .. ?? Are there perhaps spinners with a
> different taper .. ?
> Anyone had similar issues ??
>
> As an aside, trying to get my head around all this, appears to me that
> torque is also (as well as splines) transmitted by the taper fit between
> the wheel inside and hub, as otherwise the wheel would not tighten when the
> spinner is tightened .. ??
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
--
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
--001a11c3690c26edf6052393217a
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Roger,<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_de=
fault" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I hav=
e encountered that problem myself with new wheels and splines. so you are n=
ot alone. What was most confusing was that after tightening fully and remov=
ing the KO nut the wheel pulled off the spline easily so my theory about sl=
ight interference on the spline did not hold water. <br>Never really found =
a cause and it went away after the wheels were run on the road for a while =
after which the KO nut would spin on by hand and require about 1/2 a turn o=
f tightening <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:co=
mic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Please let me know if you figure ou=
t the cause..<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:co=
mic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BTW good video about making wire wh=
eels here.<br><a href=3D"http://cara.co.id/2015/06/how-to-make-wire-wheels/=
">http://cara.co.id/2015/06/how-to-make-wire-wheels/</a><br><br></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-=
size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-f=
amily:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174 <br></div></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Nov 2, 2015=
at 12:47 PM, Roger Grace <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:roggrace@=
telus.net" target=3D"_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><b=
lockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px =
#ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Comic Sans MS';COLOR:#000=
000">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibr=
i";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Comic Sans MS';COLOR:#000=
000">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibr=
i";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Comic Sans MS';COLOR:#000=
000">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibr=
i";FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Comic Sans MS';COLOR:#000=
000">
<div>I have just installed new MWS=C2=A0 5.5in 72 spoke wheels and new Moss=
(USA=20
made) splined hubs on the rear of my BJ8. Also fitted new turret lug nuts.<=
/div>
<div>I am not happy with the fitment as have to hammer the hell out of the=
=20
spinner to take up the peripheral play in the wheels.</div>
<div>What gives ? Spoken to both MWS and Moss and they are at a loss.</div>
<div>I can confirm that the hub mounting studs are not touching the inside =
of=20
the wheel and that the spinners are not bottoming.</div>
<div>Switched front to back spinners and no change.</div>
<div>Spinner thread ID seems to be within spec. at 2.194 in</div>
<div>Now thinking about new spinners .. ?? Are there perhaps spinners with =
a=20
different taper .. ?</div>
<div>Anyone had similar issues ??</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>As an aside, trying to get my head around all this, appears to me that=
=20
torque is also (as well as splines) transmitted by the taper fit between th=
e=20
wheel inside and hub, as otherwise the wheel would not tighten when the spi=
nner=20
is tightened .. ??</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></di=
v></div></div>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail=
_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2"><spa=
n style=3D"color:black">If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've g=
ot an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><d=
iv></div></div></div></div></div>
</div>
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