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I've had similar symptoms with a failed 'foot valve'--the little seal
that lets fluid into the MC from the reservoir which should close when
you apply pedal.
Bob
On 10/21/2015 2:02 PM, David Porter wrote:
> Call Tim or Martin at Power Brake in CA 408-292-01305 helpful folks..
> Dave
> GT6+
>
> On 10/21/2015 2:39 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> Hi Bob,
>> In my experience the Girling servo units can be very difficult to
>> rebuild satisfactorily.
>> The symptoms that you describe are however more indicative of air in
>> the system than those typical of servo difficulties.
>> If the servo is not working properly the typical symptoms are no
>> servo action at all or brakes dragging and/or locking on.
>> To check the servo action pump the brake pedal several times with the
>> engine not running then, with pressure on the brake pedal, start the
>> engine and the pedal should drop a little as manifold vacuum is
>> established. If the pedal drops the servo is working.
>> The other problem is evident when you drive the car.. First the brake
>> pedal will become quite "hard" and there will be no "free play" at
>> the top of its stroke next the brakes will get very hot and
>> eventually the car will stop moving because the brakes are locked on..
>> The usual cause of that problem is the failure of the large piston
>> within the servo unit to return fully to its rest position when the
>> brakes are released. That is where the "thinner sponge" thing comes
>> in. The correct solution is to have the inside of the servo "chest"
>> re-coated with a special slippery coating. There should be more
>> information on that way back in the archives.
>> Hope that helps,
>>
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>> (4 wheel drum brakes ..no servo)
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 20, 2015 at 6:24 PM, R. Cobb <rcobb@earthlink.net
>>
>> Unit was rebuilt using kit from Moss.
>>
>> Symptoms, following bleeding hydraulic brake system (no
>> differences noted whether car running or not): On first try of
>> brakes, nearly no braking, with pedal going almost to floor.
>>
>> Second try, sometimes a release is felt in the pedal (with an
>> associated, slight "pop" sound) with a bit more braking and less
>> travel of pedal. By the third try, the pedal travel seems more
>> normal, and the braking is improved, though not up to the level
>> expected.
>>
>> The above pattern has been replicated numerous times, with the
>> thinking that perhaps if something were binding, it would
>> work-in. No such luck.
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> I recall that some months ago a contributor mentioned having had
>> to install a thinner sponge rubber ring for under the piston
>> seal...because of binding(?). Could this be the issue? Would
>> this result in the behavior I'm experiencing?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Bob
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM
> 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
>
>
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I've had similar symptoms with a failed 'foot valve'--the little
seal that lets fluid into the MC from the reservoir which should
close when you apply pedal.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/21/2015 2:02 PM, David Porter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:5627FD48.20302@porterscustom.com" type="cite">
<meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
Call Tim or Martin at Power Brake in CA 408-292-01305 helpful
folks..<br>
Dave<br>
GT6+<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/21/2015 2:39 PM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7LK8cse-n7RR8SqyXSwFj3WzE3th4YiJoOmNw_eG592Giw@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Bob,<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">In my experience the Girling
servo units can be very difficult to rebuild satisfactorily.
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The symptoms that you
describe are however more indicative of air in the system
than those typical of servo difficulties. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">If the servo is not working
properly the typical symptoms are no servo action at all or
brakes dragging and/or locking on.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">To check the servo action
pump the brake pedal several times with the engine not
running then, with pressure on the brake pedal, start the
engine and the pedal should drop a little as manifold vacuum
is established. If the pedal drops the servo is working.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The other problem is evident
when you drive the car.. First the brake pedal will become
quite "hard" and there will be no "free play" at the top of
its stroke next the brakes will get very hot and eventually
the car will stop moving because the brakes are locked on..<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The usual cause of that
problem is the failure of the large piston within the servo
unit to return fully to its rest position when the brakes
are released. That is where the "thinner sponge" thing comes
in. The correct solution is to have the inside of the servo
"chest" re-coated with a special slippery coating. There
should be more information on that way back in the archives.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hope that helps,<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174 <br>
(4 wheel drum brakes ..no servo)<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 20, 2015 at 6:24 PM, R.
Cobb <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:rcobb@earthlink.net";
target="_blank">rcobb@earthlink.net</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Unit was
rebuilt using kit from Moss.<br>
<br>
Symptoms, following bleeding hydraulic brake system (no
differences noted whether car running or not): On first
try of brakes, nearly no braking, with pedal going almost
to floor.<br>
<br>
Second try, sometimes a release is felt in the pedal (with
an associated, slight "pop" sound) with a bit more braking
and less travel of pedal. By the third try, the pedal
travel seems more normal, and the braking is improved,
though not up to the level expected.<br>
<br>
The above pattern has been replicated numerous times, with
the thinking that perhaps if something were binding, it
would work-in. No such luck.<br>
<br>
Any thoughts?<br>
<br>
I recall that some months ago a contributor mentioned
having had to install a thinner sponge rubber ring for
under the piston seal...because of binding(?). Could this
be the issue? Would this result in the behavior I'm
experiencing?<br>
<br>
Thanks in advance.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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</blockquote>
</div>
<br>
<br clear="all">
<br>
-- <br>
<div class="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span
style="color:black">If you can't fix it with a
hammer, you've got an electrical
problem.</span></font></i><br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque,
NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world <a
moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.porterbikes.com/";><a
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