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--089e0112c2701735f605182bf4e1
I would concur with Jean's observation but would also add that you should
watch for damage to the groove in the lower windshield rail.
I have encountered several where the "T" shaped groove had been crushed a
little making installation of the seal impossible. I made a little tool
from the head of a flat head nail that use to open the groove up to its
original size.
Michael S
BN1 #174
On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 9:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
wrote:
> I've been reading over the years about what a swine of a job it is to put
> in the windscreen to body seal on a BJ8...now it's my turn.
> My problem is that the new rubber seems to be a LOT thicker where it forms
> the "T", than the old one.
> I got it from a very reputable supplier, whom I won't mention because I'm
> going to talk to him about it tomorrow and see what his take on it is.
> I just wondered if anyone one else had noticed this discrepancy on the
> replacement rubber. I have some good blunted tools that look like they'd do
> the job, but I feel like I'm trying to cram in more rubber than there is
> space for!
>
> Stephen, BJ8
>
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--
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
--089e0112c2701735f605182bf4e1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I would concur with Jean's observatio=
n but would also add that you should watch for damage to the groove in the =
lower windshield rail. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font=
-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I have encountered severa=
l where the "T" shaped groove had been crushed a little making in=
stallation of the seal impossible. I made a little tool from the head of a =
flat head nail that use to open the groove up to its original size.<br><br>=
</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-=
serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" styl=
e=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></di=
v></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, J=
un 9, 2015 at 9:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"m=
ailto:s.hutchings@rogers.com" target=3D"_blank">s.hutchings@rogers.com</a>&=
gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 =
0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=3D"colo=
r:#000;background-color:#fff;font-family:HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helve=
tica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div>I've been read=
ing over the years about what a swine of a job it is to put in the windscre=
en to body seal on a BJ8...now it's my turn.</div><div>My problem is th=
at the new rubber seems to be a LOT thicker where it forms the "T"=
;, than the old one.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">I got it from a very reputable s=
upplier, whom I won't mention because I'm going to talk to him abou=
t it tomorrow and see what his take on it is.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">I just =
wondered if anyone one else had noticed this discrepancy on the replacement=
rubber. I have some good blunted tools that look like they'd do the jo=
b, but I feel like I'm trying to cram in more rubber than there is spac=
e for!</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Stephen, BJ8<br></d=
iv></div></div><br>_______________________________________________<br>
nk">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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ww.team.net/archive</a><br>
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s/michaelsalter@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/=
options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail=
_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2"><spa=
n style=3D"color:black">If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've g=
ot an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><d=
iv></div></div></div></div></div>
</div>
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