I fabricated a sheet metal pan [ for my BT7 ] to fill the space between
the front shroud and frame below the radiator. the air that comes in the
grill goes thru the radiator instead of under the car. the pan is 16 3/4"
wide, 13 1/2" front/back. A 1 1/2" lip on the back fastens it to the frame
rail. A 2 1/4" hole is located for the radiator drain. Stock radiator and
a 6 blade alum. fan from Norm Knock. No cooling problems. Aloha, Jim
On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 9:27 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:
> One factor which I have found makes a surprisingly large difference is the
> correct installation of the radiator baffles. I have resolved persistent
> overheating problems in 6 cylinder cars by just ensuring that the hot air
> from the engine compartment cannot make its way around to the front of the
> radiator..
> It's worth a try and a lot less expensive than an aluminium radiator.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 12:47 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Agreed. I am using a (modern) sleeved-type thermostat, have a calibrated
> > gauge and have tried several thermostats (I tested a couple on the stove
> > and they functioned as expected). Still, my BJ8 engine will run below the
> > thermostat set point on a cool day with light load--I would expect the
> > coolant temp even under those conditions to rise to nominal, but it
> > doesn't. Our BN2 behaves the same way.
> >
> > The only comparison I can think of is air-cooled aircraft engines, which
> > usually have an oil cooler. There is a valve called a
> > Vernatherm--essentially a bi-metal strip--that closes off oil flow to the
> > oil cooler radiator to allow the engine to warm to operating temperature
> > before the cooler is brought 'online.' But, an air-cooled engine can
> > dissipate a lot more heat than an Austin lump.
> >
> > Is it possible the huge chunk of iron in front could be 'self-cooling' to
> > a point then, beyond that point, even with wide-open thermostat, cannot
> > maintain a set temperature? My guess is that at speed there is sufficient
> > airflow to cool the engine--even below the thermostat set point--but once
> > stuck in traffic or with a load there isn't enough excess airflow and the
> > cooling system's capability is exceeded (as Kees mentioned).
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> >
> >
> > In general the temperature should be more or less constant under any
> > condition, just slightly above the opening temperature of the
> > thermostat. If the temperature shows to be lower than the thermostat
> > opening temperature the thermostat is at fault or is the wrong type (it
> > should be of the sleeved type), assuming the heater is turned off. If
> > very cold, with the heater plus heater fan on maximum, the temperature
> > could drop below the opening temperature of the thermostat.
> > If the temperature increases significantly the cooling capacity is
> > insufficient because of blockages/dirt, faulty water pump or the wrong
> > radiator capacity.
> > Older cars can have insufficient cooling capacity at low speeds/engine
> > revs, hence the advise to fit a thermostatically controlled electric fan
> > when the car is used in modern traffic.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
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