2K epoxy is the way to go. Use the best brand you can find/afford.
After sand blasting I use a rust converter (basicly phosphatic accid) which
works very well. On suspension parts I tend to use a product, called Fertan
as cast iron is even more prone to rust than sheet metal.
Gergo
2014-07-31 5:30 GMT+02:00 Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>:
> I'm not a pro painter, but did a lot of research when restoring our BN2.
> I don't believe painters use a rust inhibitor, per se. Best technique is
> to strip down to bare metal, then immediately apply an epoxy primer (keep
> in mind any metal starts corroding as soon as it comes in contact with
> oxygen, facilitated by moisture, of which there is always some in the
> atmosphere). Standard and 'high build' primers are remarkably porous, and
> unless you can strip to bare metal, apply primer, perform sanding,
> smoothing, etc. and finish paint in pretty much the same day or two you
> need to use an epoxy (two part) primer which effectively seals the surface.
> There are various metal preps which will etch bare metal and leave a very
> thin phosphate coating--prior to primer--which is probably the best
> inhibitor you can get, but it may or may not be necessary depending on who
> you talk to (some prefer an etching primer). Wear latex/vinyl/nitrile
> gloves to keep body oils off the bare metal.
>
> If the 100-6 is similar to our 100--I know, the windshields are different
> but both have similar side posts--the front fenders have to come off to get
> to the posts (which you say you're doing). Removing the fenders isn't too
> difficult--lots and lots of bolts, and you'll have to remove headlight
> buckets and turn signals.
>
> I encourage you to research paint and techniques--there is copious info on
> the interwebs.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 7/30/2014 7:57 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
>
>> Greetings,
>>
>> It appears my current engine in my 100-6 needs an overhaul. I have the
>> original numbers matching engine in my shed with a broken rod. I plan on
>> having that original engine fully overhauled and the rear seal installed,
>> and
>> will be selling the other as a core. The car is in good shape but the
>> engine
>> bay is the wrong color, along with the frame, inside of trunk, etc.
>>
>> My son and I would like to keep the car this winter in my heated shed and
>> work
>> on it while my mechanic overhauls the engine. I would like to strip the
>> engine
>> bay and repaint it the same color as the outside (old English white) and
>> remove the fenders and repaint the frame. The frame is in great shape
>> along
>> with the suspension. This appears to have had a restoration somewhere in
>> the
>> past.
>>
>> My body man will be painting the rear fenders and putting everything back
>> together. My questions are: how easy is it to remove the fenders and
>> windshield? Which rust inhibitor do most professionals spray before
>> painting?
>>
>> Although this is new to my son and I, we would like to do as much work as
>> possible ourselves while the engine is being rebuilt.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
>
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