Made a tool by cutting a slot in 5/8 spark plug socket, cut a slot in a
,5/8 box wrench, the cut it in half. Just pulled my radiator. Cold chisel
sliced off some of nut, but did not turn it. Used heat gun, as per Steve
Pike, no joy. Using penetrating oil. Won't budge in either
direction....will call shop tomorrow for advice. I have special sockets for
rounded nuts, but would need to cut tube right at hut. Gas torch too close
to fuel sources for my comfort....
thanks to you and all who offered help. May just cut it and use a dedicated
temp gauge now, then send mine out fir rebuild over the winter. I've been
waiting three years to drive the car.
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Sep 2, 2013 11:57 AM, "Frank Magnusson" <fmags@cox.net> wrote:
> Hi Ira, I just looked at my BJ8 and I see your dilemma for sure. There's
> just
> no room to work in there and no clearance to get a tool on the nut.
> I would call the instrument shop, Palo Alto Speedometer does these I think
> and
> ask them where to cut the tube. I would think they would have to do this
> anyway to replace the nut. I think you'll also have to get out the heavy
> artillery. What you need is access room, so I think you'll have to remove
> everything that you can that is in the way of getting a tool in there.
> Radiator, fan, belt, etc. I don't know if there is enough room to get a 6
> pt
> socket on it if the tube is cut or if the nut is too far gone for that. The
> wall on the socket might be too thick to get in there, but you could have a
> socket turned on a lathe to get it thinner, but it will also be weaker and
> could shatter. There are all kinds of vise grips made and a mini one or a
> needle nose or a mini needle nose might work if there's no other choice.
> Sounds stupid, I know, but are you sure you're turning it the right way?
> I'm
> not sure if this nut is standard threads ( counter clockwise to loosen) or
> reverse thread. Maybe someone on the list would know. Found that out the
> hard way on the main axle nut on the left side. Miscommunication with me
> and
> a healey shop. Finally came off the wrong way with a customized tool and
> a 3
> foot cheater bar. Oops. Was able to dress the threads on the axle and a
> new
> nut and that Took care of it.
> Are you using penetrating oil? The best I've found is called break free.
> It's made to a Mil Spec and its hands down better than anything else I've
> ever
> used. May be able to find it on the intent. A lot of guns shops have it
> for
> some reason.
> If vise grips don't do the trick with good penetrating oil, you could try
> instead of putting them on perpendicular to the nut, put them parallel to
> it
> on the end, then use a big screwdriver or drift inserted 90 degrees to the
> vise grips and use that to get some leverage to turn it while you squeeze
> the
> vise grips together. That's helped me out several times. Might also have
> to
> cut a wrench shorter to get enough room to swing it.
> Other than that, it would take heat. Lots of it. The head will be a big
> heat
> sink so you need a torch. Propane torch probably isn't enough heat, but if
> you go this route, you'll probably need to pull the head. Too much of an
> explosion risk doing it in the car, unless a shop is willing to try it for
> you
> with the right precautions. I don't remember if this fitting is in the
> head
> or the block. Hopefully you won't have to pull the head. A good
> restoration
> shop may be able to get it out for you without pulling the head.
> Anyway, sure sorry to hear this is turning out to be such a job. Good luck
> with it.
> frank
>
> Sent from my iPad
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